Black Bass Hotel Revisited

By Leigh Cort

Time moves slowly on the Delaware River, the pulsating eddies swirling past the glorious Black Bass Inn in Lumberville, Pennsylvania, reminding visitors that a hotel's pedigree from the 1740's is worthy of their stay. Without an inkling of what the past twenty years had brought to this legendary property since my last visit, I dreamed that I was sitting in the historic dining room gazing out of the picture windows at the panoramic view that enchanted me decades before. The dream became a reality when I learned that the Black Bass was enjoying a new beginning – but only since June 2009. And I had to be there. I yearned to know what happened when the hammer went down at the March 2008 auction of the Black Bass Hotel.

Stroll the Raven Rock pedestrian bridge from Black Bass Hotel
across the Delaware to Bull Island

The 410 mile Delaware tortuously entices historians and romantics to its scenic shorelines. Having a reputation for enchanting writers with treasured stories, it includes the famous ‘Delaware Crossing' ( the improvised boat crossing undertaken by George Washington's army during the American Revolution on Christmas Day 1776 )

The new owner, Jack Thompson, offered his winning bid for this 18 th century ‘grand dame' that was ready for a loving and talented family's magic wand. Weaving her spell for over fourteen months with engineers, designers and contractors, daughter Laura Thompson Barnes tackled the daunting project with passionate attention to every detail. …A main dining room that embraces the picturesque grandeur of the River and Canal, a stunning Tavern that houses the Hotel's collection of royal British memorabilia and the pewter bar from Maxim's in Paris …and a second floor with eight guest suites that could melt your heart to spend at least a week in pure heaven!

Choosing one of the luxurious suites was a difficult decision. Each accommodation offers sumptuous views of the River, private balconies, deluxe plush bathrooms, exposed stone walls and the most amazing collection of authentic and refurbished antiques from the original inn. The Tinsman Suite was my choice, named for one of the oldest families of Lumberville who purchased the local lumber mill in 1869. I was immediately at home on the balcony listening to the late autumn breezes and identifying a faint aroma of freshly baked breads wafting up from the kitchen. Actually it was from bakery located in the Lumberville General Store across the road only 100' from the front door. Pastry chef Marion Schmitz bakes breads, cakes, pies, scones, biscotti, cookies and signature items for the hotel each day.

Living Room in Suite Loraine with a panoramic view of the river and Bull's Island

I couldn't wait until dinner. Twenty years earlier it was the lavish and elegantly presented Sunday brunch that lured me to the Hotel, escaping New York City feverishly each weekend to Bucks County . Now it was Chef John Barrett's culinary reputation continuing the tradition of exceptional cuisine. Ah, the hotel's much-loved signature dish ~ Charleston Meeting Street Crab, pecan-coated New Zealand Rack of Lamb and Oysters Bienville ~ they became my new favorites. My heartthrob was the latter, an appetizer of flawlessly prepared plump oysters dressed in bechamel sauce and chopped jewelettes of shrimp, red pepper, onions, mushrooms, a sprinkling of bread crumbs and cheese. Secretly I knew there was time after dinner to venture downstairs to the Lantern Lounge and sip a glass of port in front of the fireplace, listening to late night stories and guests marveling at the transformation of their beloved Black Bass!

The following morning, a surprise awaited. In addition to the hotel's lavish 3-course breakfast served to overnight guests, General Manager Grant Ross, a seasoned hotelier from Scotland , was on hand to entertain us with highlights from the months of restoration. He was personally involved in hundreds of decisions along with the Thompson family. Detailed accounts of forensic surveyors, original beds miraculously expanded into the current ‘kings and queens',  thousands of hours refurbishing furniture and original artwork  ~ even tales about the 1830 fire, canals and towpaths ~ the story was an amazing saga of ‘the jewel of the Delaware'.

With approximately 30 miles of Delaware River to explore at the Hotel's doorstep, I can now dream about returning to enjoy a leisurely afternoon on horseback or bike ride along the towpath. Lumberville is eight miles north of famed New Hope , the quaint village that is alive with galleries, nightlife, boutiques and the Bucks County Playhouse. Parks, hiking trails, fishing and tubing are a few of the warmer weather adventures while antiquing and just relaxing in front of the fire with a great book are perfect for just about any time at this hauntingly beautiful hotel with a rich history. 

Leaving the Black Bass Hotel was a bittersweet affair, longing to return one day soon while we drove away from the tiny hamlet – the now familiar quiet of the river and birds bidding me adieu. I know that the hotel has remained a sentinel of hospitality for centuries but in only one day it changed me. The riches of the Black Bass will lure us back to share it with our children and their children, as generations of families did during the hotel's lifetime. I buried a stone along the River's shore for safekeeping and I'm sure it will be there one day when I return.

www.blackbasshotel.com

3774 River Road

Lumberville , Pa 18933

215-297-9260

Click to learn about Leigh Cort