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The many villages
with their Cape Cod style architecture are charming. It is
not surprising that this area is frequently referred to as
the mid-western Cape Cod. It's a world without any chain
restaurants or big box stores.
How delightful. How retro.
It's also located on the imaginary line that places
it half way between the Equator and the North Pole.
Villages with names like
Egg Harbor, Fish
Creek, Ephraim (where by ordinance, buildings must be
painted white)
Bailey's Harbor,
and Whitefish Bay
are only a few of the delightful destinations. There is a
different story to be learned about each village's name when
you visit. Some names are historical and some humorous.
Surprisingly, the villages manage to maintain an
individual flavor.
Door County is a relatively small land
area, about 70 miles long, but offer visitors much to see
and do. Live theatre is a feature of the
American Folklore
Theatre in Peninsular
State Park Amphitheatre (open air) in Ephraim.
The 500-seat
Birch Creek Music Performance Center features a diverse
program in the historic Egg Harbor barn.
The
Third Avenue
Playhouse (TAP) features live performances in a
converted Sturgeon Bay movie theatre.
Eight
Lighthouses on
the peninsula plus three on the mainland are a bonanza for
lighthouse buffs. The county boasts a total of eight local
wineries, enough
to warrant a brochure publicizing the Door County WINE
TRAIL. Each
winery offers a distinctive array of wines with their own
labels and of course the ever popular tastings.
Art happenings abound in almost every
village. The Door
County ARTS MAP helps visitors find things of special
interest. In
fact, colorful and informative brochures about the venues of
Door County are available at almost every stop visitor's
make.
Every village has an abundance of
eateries, with water views whenever possible, that make
choosing just the right one a toss of the dice.
Since this is a tourist based economy, most
restaurants feature menus for all meals.
Locals will bend
over backwards to be helpful and answer almost any question.
Just ask.
It was a relief finally landing in
Green Bay after a long travel day.
Driving on the
bridge over Sturgeon Bay Canal onto the Door County
peninsular, I arrived in time for dinner at
The Cookery in
Fish Creek with its laid back atmosphere, unique local
specialties and local beer. The Cookery's menu included
interesting selections of local fish, imaginative food
combinations and a nice choice of selections for
vegetarians.
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The
Stavkirke church,
Washington Island
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This 70-mile sliver of land defies a
single description as a destination. It has 300 miles of
shoreline, is famous for its endless rows of cherry trees, a
collection of unique communities, boutique shopping,
picturesque lighthouses, and two ferry-only accessible
islands on its north end which transport visitors to yet
other worlds.
Before leaving the peninsular, consider the many available
outdoor activities from which to choose: hiking, biking,
boating, fishing, camping and other possibilities.
The ferry to
Washington Island
(depicted in the header)
travels over waters so treacherous that early French
explorers named the area "Portes
des Morts" or Death's Door.
This is where Door County got its name. Have no fear
though. You are traveling in a large ferry not a birch bark
canoe.
In 1850, Washington Island became home
to the second oldest Icelandic settlement in the US.
An interesting stop on the way to the Rock Island
ferry while still on Washington Island is
The Stavkirke,
a replica of church whose design was common in Norway in
medieval times. It is definitely a picture taking moment.
The ferry to
Rock Island
deposits passengers in a state park without cars or
electricity.
Reservations for primitive camp sites can fill up almost a
year in advance of the season. Far removed from any light
pollution, this has got to be one of the best night sky
viewing places I've ever visited.
Short driving distances between
villages and other places of interest on the peninsula are
easily managed allowing visitors to tour much of the area on
their own with the aid of the numerous available free
brochures. But a time saver when it comes to finding special
places to visit is to take one of the many
Door County Trolley
narrated tours. Experienced drivers/guides relate tales
about local history, visit villages, and out of the way
places which visitors might never discover on their own.
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Dramatic finale to preparing
a Fish Boil
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Not to be
missed is the area's famous
FISH BOIL at one
of the eateries featuring this treat. The fish boil was
originated by Door County's Scandinavian settlers over
100 years ago to economically feed large groups of fishermen
and lumberjacks.
My first experience with one was at
Rowleys Bay Resort
in Ellison Bay which also has a large restaurant facing a
bay of the same name.
Water in an iron cauldron is brought to
a rolling boil. At the proper time the "chef" adds kosher
salt, onions, red potatoes, veggies if desired, and
then chunks of fresh local lake caught white fish while the
fire is being tended to.
For the finale, kerosene is poured into the
ring surrounding the pot. What it does is to create a
very hot fire which can easily soar to ten or more feet in
height sending the scum on the top of the ingredients that
have been cooking in the pot out over the sides including
the grease and fat from the fish removing any fishy
taste. At no time, despite the intensity of the fire which
stuns and amazes first time viewers, is any of the food
burned. The
final product is delicious chunks of Lake Michigan white
fish with any fishy taste totally gone.
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Snow height indicator |
Door County, recently named a Top 5
summer getaway, is also a hotspot for winter activities.
The area does get enough snow to host winter activities as I
saw by the extension on a fire hydrant in Sturgeon Bay which
sported a bright orange plastic on top giving me
a hint at snow
accumulations.
Because of an amazing number of
restaurants, wineries, and other places of interest on the
peninsula, I can only report on the ones personally visited
and even then there is not enough room here for me to do
justice to all that I did visit.
During my visit to Door County, I found
that all of the restaurants at which I stopped had
delightful, knowledgeable servers and generally unhurried
service. I
don't mean slow, I mean relaxed.
Of special note is
Wilson's Restaurant
& Ice Cream Parlor in the village of Ephraim.
Opened in 1906, it
is a landmark.
As would be expected, this is not a new era chrome and glass
experience. The
soda/food counter, original Wurlitzer Juke Box, and other
remnants of the past make for an old timey atmosphere where
families keep returning generation after generation.
The food is good and
portions generous but keep lots of room for the ice cream
specials.
Breakfast was shared with friends at
Door County Coffee &
Tea Co. in Sturgeon Bay, a mecca for coffee lovers.
Their coffee experts buy beans from around the world
and import only ‘Specialty Class 1 Arabica beans' which are
then roasted and ground on the premises.
Their specialty
coffees are available to take home and there is a restaurant
in which you can try their coffees while dining.
Wineries are a major attraction on the
peninsula. The largest and oldest is Door
Peninsula Winery and Distillery in the village of
Carlsville.
Their wine tastings are augmented by tastings of their
unique distilled spirits in another section of the building
and olive oil tastings in yet another section.
A more laid back wine tasting
experience was to be had at
Harbor Ridge Winery
in Egg Harbor.
This is Door County's newest winery and the owner has
a sense of humor when it comes to naming his wines.
Displaying some of the labels at home is sure to
bring smiles to the faces of your guests.
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Cherry Pit Spit course with
distances marked.
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Did you know that Cherry Pit Spitting
is a competitive sport? Check out the
Orchard County
Winery & Market in Fish Creek. They have acres of cherry
trees which when harvested wind up in wine, pies, juice, and
jams or bought whole. They
can be bought whole or ground.
Just remember to
spit out the pits which you can do on their marked "Cherry
Pit Spit" course.
Readers might feel there is too much
emphasis here on wineries.
Well, they are hard to miss when driving the local
roads. The signs are everywhere. However they are a major
part of the local experience and are well spaced for
convenience stops.
My visit to Door County was in late
June and the only downside was the aggressive mosquitoes.
More annoying though than the mosquitoes was trying
to connect to phone service. For AT&T customers, finding a
signal is almost as difficult as spotting Big Foot.
Finding a Wi-fi location was almost as difficult. The upside
was I generally couldn't get phone and Wi-fi service.
The iPhone stayed in its case most of my visit.
The silence was wonderful
More information for
your trip planning can be found on the excellent web site of
the Door County Visitor's Bureau at
Doorcounty.com.