|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I started the second of last
month, June, and headed first for Macon, Georgia. My little Chevy
Spark, nicknamed Sparky, was crammed so tight that there
wouldn't have been room for one of my cats to squeeze in had
they wanted. Fortunately, none did. They were content to stay
home and wait for my return as long as Martin, my somewhat
partner, was there to feed them. As usual, I had packed more
clothes than I would need. My camera, laptop computer, and
assorted electronics were another medium bag. The camping
stuff was most of the load, tent, ground cover, ice chest,
hotplate and several versatile cooking utensils, picnic basket
and lockable food container to keep bears out of the food,
blow-up mattress and pump, blow-up kayak, and paddles just in
case I found time for that. My camping philosophy was always
better to bring something you don't need rather than to need
something you didn't bring.
Macon
Macon went smoothly. My wonderful
CVB person, Valerie, had set up everything from my stay in
1842 B and B to a full schedule of attractions. 1842 B and B
is a fantastic historic inn. The room made me feel as if I had
moved back to the 19th century and was visiting a
luxurious Southern home but had retained all the modern
conveniences. For breakfast, I choose to have one of the best
Strawberry French Toast I have ever tasted and tea served in
my room. So much is new in Macon since my
last visit. Tubman Museum is now in a huge new building where
they can display all their treasures. Capricorn Studio once recorded
greats like The Allman Brothers Band, Charlie Daniels, Percy
Sledge, Marshall Tucker Band, and other southern musical stars
of the '70s. I visited the Capricorn Museum, Studio A where
Southern Rock was born, and their new state of the art studio
built in 2019. Studio A is preserved just as it was in the
'70s. Once again, Capricorn Studio is recording music. The Allman Brothers Band combined
the sounds of Blues, Jazz, and Country music created a new
music genre known as Southern Rock. Their home, which they
called The Big House, is now open to visitors. I loved
browsing through the artists' memorabilia, instruments,
clothing, and more. I took the Rock Candy Tour of
Macon's music history with knowledgeable guide, Rex Dooley. Georgia Sports Hall of Fame
and Museum is the country's largest state sports museum. It's
interactive so I could play along not just view many of the
exhibits. The mysteries hidden at Ocmulgee
Mounds always draw me back when I visit Macon. The museum
tells some of the story. Much may never be known but it is a
fascinating place to visit. Although I wasn't camping here I
visited the Lake Tobesofkee Recreation. The man-made lake is a
prime spot for outdoor recreation in middle Georgia. Two of
the three areas, Arrowhead and Claystone Parks, offer camping
from tent to big RVs. I ate well in Macon. Oliver's has
fresh food done in their special way. The Rookery fed both
Otis Redding and the Allman Brothers Band. Piedmont Brewery
and Restaurant is a double treat. Blairsville
Next stop, Blairsville, Georgia. I
got no help here and was completely on my own so I went back
to an old favorite, tent camping. (See that story here)Vogel
State Park is a treat and worth a visit camping on not. I met up with an old friend, Julie,
and we had lunch at Hole in the Wall. I always loved that
place when I lived there. Usually it was my breakfast place
but this time it was lunch. I did an interview with
Blairsville's, only moonshine distillery. Tommy Townsend, the
owner, is not only a traditional moonshiner but what a
musician! He graciously got me into his concert that night and
I was blown away. There wasn't time for a real meal after
setting up the tent. I grabbed a snack from my packed food for
that evening's dinner. Local museums were helpful. The
Byron Herbert Reece Farm and Heritage Center is a newer
attraction in the once-rural community of Union County. This
museum portrays farm life in North Georgia Mountains in the
early 20th century. The Old Courthouse on the Square is
now a museum where I saw artifacts reliving Blairsville's
past. The Grapelle Butt Mock House just a block away,
continues the story with the Museum of Mountain Life. Of course, I had to visit Brasstown
Bald, the highest mountain in Georgia. It was a good trip but
I forgot one thing, car batteries don't last forever. I had to
use my car's built in wifi as there is none in the campground.
I must have left the key in accessory position rather than
turning it off after using the wifi. When I was leaving for
Chattanooga the next morning, I got up at the crack of dawn to
take down the tent. Got everything all crammed back into the
car. When I went to start, it was dead as a road-kill possum
on a busy highway. Thanks to a kind fellow camper who gave me
a jump, I still made it to Chattanooga on time.
Chattanooga
Chattanooga was another place that
went all out to accommodate me. Since there was so much to do
there I stayed three days instead of the two days I had
allotted for Macon and Blairsville. Marissa at the CVB had
booked the attractions that were timed for me. The Tennessee
Aquarium was my first stop. I was scheduled for 10am and got I
there with just minutes to spare. River Journey led me down
the rivers of the world while Ocean Journey introduced me to
the ocean dwellers. I had plenty of time before my next
booked attraction so I checked into my home away from home,
Hotel Indigo. It's Chattanooga newest hotel, very comfortable,
and close to all the attractions. I even had time for a quick
brunch at its restaurant, The Wanderer. Tennessee Valley Railway was next.
I took the Missionary Ridge trip called the Local. Nice trip
and lasted about an hour. Next morning, I was seeing the
Lookout Mountain attractions. I started with Rock City. It was
raining off and on but not enough to stop things. I found this
long time attraction as charming as ever. It's Chattanooga's
oldest and best-known attraction and so much more than a
beautiful garden Next stop was Ruby Falls. It's good
to be underground when it's raining. My guide, Tommy, was
great. The 145-foot Ruby Falls is the tallest underground
waterfall open to the public. For lunch after seeing the Lookout
Mountain attractions, I tried The Purple Daisy in Historic St.
Elmo. The Incline Railway is a ride for a
mile straight up Lookout Mountain. At the top, there are Civil
War sites Battles for Chattanooga Museum and Point Park. Naughty Cat Café the only cat cafe
in Chattanooga so I had to visit. Bluff View Art District was
relaxing. Ther is so much public art as well as many museums
and galleries. After a delicious lunch at Tony's Pasta Shop &
Trattoria where I got to choose my pasta, sauce and additions
I browsed a bit. At Chattanooga Zoo, I loved
visiting all the wildlife. Nicely done and spacious habitats
for the animals' comfort. Stir, in the Chattanooga Choo Choo
Complex, was interesting. Good food in a old-fashioned
railroad ambience. Of course, I browsed around and got photos
of the famous Choo Choo. International Towing Museum was a
pleasant surprise. There was much more than I expected. I found time to check out the
Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge and Coolidge Park. Wish the
carousel had been open. I had chance to sample many of the
great dining spots. Pluckett's Grocery or City Café Diner were
my breakfast choices. Old Gilman's Grill was a more upscale
choice for dinner one night.
Nashville
Nashville gave me a Star
Attractions Pass but again I was on my own for accommodations.
Luckily, a friend, Pam, put me up at her guesthouse in
Franklin. The guesthouse was lovely and it was good seeing Pam
again and meeting her furry companions. Since there was so
much to see I planned three days. As I found out when I began
exploring, a week would have not been enough. Still, I crammed
in hurried visits to most of the places I wanted to see. Part of being a travel writer is
that you learn a trip, especially one you put together
yourself, rarely goes smoothly. After enjoying tea with Pam
and stowing my suitcase, I got in my little Sparky to head out
for a day of exploring. Turned the key and nothing happened. A
friend of Pam's gave me a jump and I was on my way wondering
why the battery had died when I hadn't left a key on or any
other reason to discharge it. I was already behind Wednesday's
schedule when I arrived at the Lotz House, Thomas Cartweight,
executive director and historian, gave a wonderful tour. When
I left and went to start my car, once again, dead, dead, dead!
By now, I was beginning to get the message. Sparky was trying
to remind me, batteries only last about four years. Sparky was
purchased new in 2017. We are now in 2021. Do the math. I looked around. Across the street
was a small mechanic shop. Not likely to have a battery to
fit. A few doors down, there was an auto parts store. Maybe? I
walked to it and tried. No luck. Walking back, I stopped
at the mechanic. He jumped Sparky for me and told me where to
find the nearest Chevy dealer. Wonderful man would not even
take a payment for his work. At the Chevy dealer, a nice
serviceman, Daniel, told me what I already knew, the battery's
soul was now resting in that great junk shop in the sky. They
had to send out for a battery so I passed about two hours
sitting in the waiting room having a few cups of tea and some
cookies for a late lunch. When I finally headed out to try to
catch up my missed stops, $233 poorer but at least I could be
sure Sparky would start next stop. My schedule was totally messed up.
I thought I could make it to the Hermitage, Andrew Jackson's
home. The site said it closed at 4pm this day. I got there at
3:15 to find it already closed. So much for believing posted
times. I turned around and headed for
Willie Nelson and Friends Museum. It wasn't on the Star Pass
but Mark there had agreed to comp me. True to its website, it
was still open. I'm a big Willie fan see one of his concerts I
attended) so I really enjoyed this one. Cooters, right next
door, was another stop on my list. Nice, but not as big or
detailed as the Willie one. The Nashville Zoo was next stop. I
just had about an hour before closing. It was a fun and
relaxing stop. I called it a day and went back to
Pam's. She had cooked a delicious meal that soothed my frayed
ends from my hectic and very expensive day. I started early the next morning to
try to make up some of the missed places from yesterday. First
stop was Fort Negley. Interesting ruins of an old fort and a
nice visitors center that doubles as a museum. I reached Belmont Mansion just as it was opening at 9am. Did a self-guided tour. There are docents and placards explaining every room of the home so self-guided works well. I barely had time for the Tennessee
Agricultural Museum before I was scheduled to meet with Mary
Skinner, Community and Media Relations Officer for the
Tennessee State Museum. The Agricultural Museum was a pleasant
surprise with interesting exhibits and lots of old farm
machinery. I drove to the Farmer's Market
where I met Mary. We had a pleasant lunch at the Barbeque
kiosk, one of dozens of ethnic food stalls at the market.
Tennessee State Museum, right next door, is large and
impressive. I left Sparky parked at the Farmers Market and
Mary dropped me off near my next stop. The Glen Campbell Museum is a
complete replay of Glen's life and career located in a busy
part of Nashville. Actually, almost all of Nashville is
amazingly busy. So many people walking around on the streets,
popping in and out of the dozens of music venues, saloons, all
competing to see who could play the loudest music. There were
dozens of party busses and trailers filled with happy very
loud folks, also blasting out music. It felt like Mardi Gras
on Bourbon Street with music. There was a very noticeable
police presence on the streets of downtown Nashville as well. I caught the Old Town Trolley and
passed many famous places enroute to the Musicians Hall of
Fame & Museum. It honors all musicians, Blues, Rock and roll,
as well as Country. Then it was time to head home for
the night. After dinner, Pam took me around to see parts of
Franklin I missed last trip. Friday morning, I thought I could
squeeze the Hermitage in if they didn't forget to open at the
normal time, 9am. They were open and I was able to tour the
grounds. There is a lot to see there and I took too long. I parked at the Parthenon and
caught the Old Town Trolley. One thing I forgot, the trolley
goes all the way back to stop one from stop 12 where I caught
it. By the time I rode all the way around and caught another
trolley at stop 1, I was hopelessly late. The kind young woman
at the ticket booth of the Country Music Hall of Fame let me
in to the museum but cautioned me the RCA Studio Tour was a
guided one and booked by time slots. There were just 2
openings on the next tour and only one on the one after that.
I grabbed a quick snack and made it for that second tour and
really appreciated it. Our tour guide, Brenda, was excellent
and the tour went perfectly. This was my day for mistakes. It
was a little after 3pm when I got back to stop 1 and I thought
I had time to see the George Jones Museum. My thought about
the Possum was he was a fantastic singer and a lousy husband.
I saw his life in brief and returned to the trolley stop. It
was 4:15. The last trolley was 5, right? Nope. It was 4pm and
I was stranded. I approached the nearest police officer's car
and explained my predicament. I asked if there was a bus
running to the Parthenon or a taxi stand nearby? Like a true
Southern gentleman, he said, "If you don't mind riding in the
back of a police car, I'll drive you there." I really appreciated it but do not
plan on ever being arrested and tossed in the back of a patrol
car. It's all hard plastic and there are only about 4 inches
of foot room. I wear a size 9 shoe. In spite of severely
cramped toes, I made it back to my car.
The Shoals
The Shoals consists of Florence,
Muscle Shoals, Tuscumbia, and Sheffield, Alabama. They bill
themselves the Hit Recording Capital of the World. Rob
Carnegie and his staff took wonderful care of me there. I
arrived Saturday about 10pm and met Tyler, at the visitor's
center. He took me out first to Ivy Green, Helen Keller's
home. We had lunch at a fantastic Mexican
place called Rosie's Casita. Next stop was Fame Studio
followed by 3614 Jackson Highway Recording Studio, the
original site of the Muscle Shoals Sound Studios. Both had
enlightening tours. W.C. Handy Home and Museum was my
only slight disappointment as it was not open due to the
pandemic but I could see the outside of the home and get a
feel for it. Alabama Music Hall of Fame was the
next stop. It is a wonderful tribute to not only Alabama born
musician but to any musician with an Alabama connection. Dinner was at a downtown Thai
Restaurant called Yumm. I checked into the Marriott. It is
a beautiful hotel with musical tribute in its décor. Even its
restaurant is named for the Swampers. I hurriedly changed clothes and
went to see The Miracle Worker. Fantastic production; the
entire cast was wonderful but the girl who played Helen Keller
as a child should go to Hollywood when she grows up. Next morning, I met Rob at Big Bad
Breakfast downtown. He took me to see some things I had not
thought about when I decided to go to the Shoals. Tom's Wall
is a true labor of love built by a grandson in honor of his
grandmother who was forced on the Trail of Tears and took five
years escaping back home. Florence Indian Mound and Museum is
another prehistoric mystery. How and why these people built
such a mound with primitive tools is a haunting question. Frank Lloyd Wright house is one
more architectural triump for a builder way ahead of his time.
We had a great lunch and dinner at the hotel's Swampers
Restaurant. If only everyplace went so
smoothly. Montgomery
Montgomery CVB offered a tiny bit
of help. She set up two attractions of my choice for me. I
picked Old Alabama Town and The Legacy Museum. The Legacy
Museum was new since I was there last. I contacted several of
the other places I wanted to visit and they agreed to comp me.
Since Montgomery didn't comp a
hotel, I was back to tent camping. I drove first to Fort
Toulouse - Jackson Park Campground. Setup went about the same
as at Vogel, over an hour. I had a 3pm appointment at The Rosa
Parks Museum so I had to rush to change and get there on time.
I had forgotten how impressive this museum is. After that, I visited the Museum of
Alabama and the Alabama State Capitol and drove past Dexter
Ave Baptist Church and the First White House of
the Confederacy which I had visited last time. I had to drive by Hank Williams
Memorial at Oakwood Annex Cemetery and visit his grave. First night in the campground was a
disaster. The sky opened and dumped what felt like Niagara
Falls on my tent. It came right through the walls like there
was no barrier. That was the exact moment I made a decision.
NO MORE TENT CAMPING. I decided to find a reasonably priced
cargo van or pickup and convert it to a small camper. Try
sleeping in a tent with puddles on the floor on a wet air
mattress with only one small cover that was only half wet and
you will understand my decision. Next morning, after I fixed a quick
breakfast, I loaded all the wet bedding in the back of Sparky,
dragged my air mattress out to the picnic table and opened all
the flaps on my tent in the hope it would evaporate some of
the puddles all over the floor. I headed out for Freedom Rides
Museum to learn how 21 young people helped change our nation's
history using nonviolent protest. This was also a new one
since my last trip here. While I had lunch at Chris's Hot
Dog Stand, a favorite of both Hank Williams and Dr. King, I
dumped my wet bedding in a dryer at a nearby Laundromat. After
picking up my now dry bedding, I headed to Montgomery Zoo.
They were another place who graciously hosted me when I
contacted them. On the way back to the campsite, I
stopped at a Dollar Tree and picked up a mop for my tent
floor. Good thing I did as it was still covered with water all
over the floor. After I mopped and dried it as best I could, I
replaced the bed and added some more air. One other negative
about rough camping, air mattress seem to deflate a little
overnight. Note to self: get a foam mattress when I build my
camper. I had time to explore the park and
the two forts here before I fixed dinner and turned in for the
night. I had extended this stay over until Wednesday as my CVB
person told me the Legacy Museum and Old Alabama Town were not
opened until Wednesday. The night was peaceful and I got a
good night's sleep this night. First thing in the morning, I
headed for National Memorial for Peace and Justice. And from
there took their shuttle to the Legacy Museum: From
Enslavement to Mass Incarceration. I noticed a lot of security
at both sites. I guess because of the resurgence of hate
crimes lately. The Memorial, Legacy Museum, and Rosa Parks
Museum are moving but they don't let you take pictures. Don't
the museum directors realize for a travel writer to do a good
story, they need their own pictures not some duplicates used
by everyone? I headed out to Old Alabama Town.
Imagine how I felt when I got there and saw the sign, closed.
As I was walking back to my car, I saw a woman working on the
garden in there and said how sad I was to miss seeing it. She
took me over in her golf cart to the grounds and went back to
get keys for the buildings. She came back with one of the
regular guides who took me through the entire attraction. True
kindness of a stranger, two strangers at that and both named
Carol.
Forgotten Coast
Next and last stop was the
Forgotten Coast in Florida's Big Bend region. It consists of
Carrabelle, Eastpoint, St. George Island, and Apalachicola.
This was like old homecoming. I visited there many years ago
and stayed at Kathy and Skip Frink's wonderful Old Carrabelle
Hotel. I was hosted again there this time. I drove to Eastpoint and picked up
some attractions passes from Jean Lang, the Information
Specialist for Franklin County Tourist Development Council.
Then I headed out to explore. First stop was St. George Island.
Most of the island is a state park with great camping and a
traditional lighthouse. The museum was closed but I got to see
the lighthouse and visited the state park campgrounds. Keeping
it in mind for future visits after I build a small camper. On the way back to the Old
Carrabelle Hotel, I stopped and saw the Crooked River
Lighthouse. Completely different style and the museum was open
here. I had time to visit Camp Gordon
Johnston WWII Museum. A small museum that honors our military
in a big way. My room was ready and oh so welcome
when I got to the hotel. It was walking distance to The
Fathom's Steam Room and Raw Bar where I had some of the famous
Apalachicola Oysters sitting on the water-view balcony as the
band tuned up. Next morning I headed out to St.
James Bay Golf Resort. The hotel furnishes breakfast by way of
a voucher for local restaurants. Had to drive around the Carrabelle waterfront and historic district and see the World's Smallest Police Station. After a drive through some of Tate's Hell, I headed for Apalachicola and The Orman House Museum then The Raney House Museum. Next, I browsed the main street shopping in
Apalachicola, There tons of unusual shops here. On the way back, I had a late lunch
in Eastpoint at The Red Pirate. I enjoyed driving past the
beaches, arguably some of the prettiest in Florida. Back in Carrabelle, I had time to
see the History Museum. Next morning, I stopped at Carrabelle
Junction for breakfast before heading home. This is just a summary of the ups and downs of a road trip. There will be more about these locations in upcoming stories. I hope you have gotten a few pointers in case you are planning a road trip. First, allow a lot of time for planning. If you are a travel writer and want to work with the DMO where you are visiting allow way more time and do not be disappointed if you get some "no's" and some ignored emails or calls. Many city and coiunty budgets got strained during the pandemic. An honest "no" up front is better than stringing you along and then saying "no." Move on, and unless you really want that location, pick another nearby place that is more willing to work with you. Remember the old saying about the best-laid plans...? Moreover, if you are going to tent camp prepare for rain.
We'd love your comments!
|
American Roads
and | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Public Disclosure--
Please Read The FTC has a law requiring web sites to let their readers know if any of the stories are "sponsored" or compensated. We also are to let readers know if any of our links are ads. Most are not. They are just a way to direct you to more information about the article where the link is placed. We also have several ads on our pages. They are clearly marked as ads. I think readers are smart enough to know an ad when they see one but to obey the letter of the law, I am putting this statement here to make sure everyone understands. American Roads and Global Highways may contain affiliate links or ads. Further, as their bios show, most of the feature writers are professional travel writers. As such we are frequently invited on press trips, also called fam trips. On these trips most of our lodging, dining, admissions fees and often plane fare are covered by the city or firm hosting the trip. It is an opportunity to visit places we might not otherwise be able to visit. However, no one tells us what to write about those places. All opinions are 100% those of the author of that feature column. . |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Privacy Policy/ Archives /
Contributors /
Subscribe to
American Roads Books by
Kathleen Walls /
Contact /
Sponsor or Advertise/ American Roads & Global Highways Home Page
|