Take a Road Trip Through the Natural Side of the Smokies

Story and photos
by Kathleen Walls

Say"Smoky Mountains" and most people picture Gatlinburg or Pigeon Forge. They're fun, but there's a quieter, more natural side of the Smokies waiting just beyond the crowds. A road trip through Cookeville, Maryville, and Townsend lets you slow down, breathe a little deeper, and reconnect with the mountains.

Cookeville

If you're coming from Knoxville, Cookeville makes an easy first stop. The town has an easygoing Upper Cumberland charm with good food, local art, and quick access to waterfalls, lakes, and state parks. It's small enough to feel friendly, with a historic downtown worth wandering.

Shopping

Synergy Herbal Works feels like stepping back to the days before drugstores chain. Shelves are lined with more than 400 organic and wild‑crafted botanicals, loose‑leaf teas, and handcrafted tinctures and salves blending folk remedies with modern wellness.

Cookeville Depot

The 1909 Tennessee Central Railway depot, now a small museum, shows how the railroad shaped the region. Outside sits a 1913 Baldwin ten‑wheeler steam engine and two cabooses; inside, artifacts and old photos tell the town's rail story.

Art

Art spills across the Westside District. At The Silver Fern, I browsed paintings in the Fiddlehead Gallery alongside handmade jewelry, crafts, teas, and herbal tinctures. Murals brighten the streets--my favorites were Our Protectors honoring firefighters, Coming Up Roses, and Downtown, a near‑photographic scene of early 1900s life.

Dining

Fire & Vine's rooftop bar is upscale but relaxed, with a retractable roof and excellent small plates. The caramel‑coated bacon was unforgettable, and the pork chop was the thickest I've ever had.

The Putnam Room offers comfort dishes like Sweet Chili Shrimp over Dirty Rice, Baked Mac & Cheese, and the lightest house‑made focaccia.

World Foods serves huge, stuffed pizzas and authentic gyro wraps.

End the night at the 1854 Cocktail Bar and Lounge, hidden behind a"secret" door on the square. Soft sofas, warm lamplight, and imaginative cocktails; my Mary Pickford was perfect.

Lodging

For something different, stay at Your Glamping Adventure. My tree tent, Fern Gully, had central heat and a full bathroom. It has hotel comforts with a cozy treetop feel. And no, I didn't have to climb any ladders.

Kayaking

For adventure, kayak the Caney Fork River to Burgess Falls with Canoe the Caney. Burgess Falls drops 136 feet into a limestone gorge--dramatic and beautiful. When water levels are low, expect a bit of wading through the river.

Maryville

Maryville feels like a blend of a Hallmark town and Smoky Mountain adventure. It borders Great Smoky Mountains National Park and offers scenic drives, hiking trails, river views, and a walkable downtown filled with shops, breweries, and restaurants.

Art

Don't miss the Wings of Hope mural by Kelsey Montague. It's a butterfly‑themed selfie spot tucked into a downtown pocket park.

Nature

Maryville College Woods is a peaceful retreat with wildlife, native plants, and great birding. There's even a nine‑hole disc golf course.

Lodging

RT Lodge is a destination in itself. Built as a 26‑room residence by Susan Wiley Cooper Walker and later used as Maryville College's president's home, it still carries her garden legacy. Ruby Tuesday, Inc. restored it in 1997 for a corporate retreat, and today it's a beautifully updated lodge with guest rooms blending Scotch‑Irish heritage and modern comfort. The Carriage House spa offers seven serene treatment rooms for massages, facials, and body treatments.

Dining

The Restaurant at RT Lodge earned a Michelin Guide American South"Recommended" nod. Executive Chef Trevor Stockton makes nearly everything in‑house. After sampling the roasted oysters, charcuterie, and my pan‑roasted chicken breast, I can say the recognition is well deserved.

Townsend

Townsend,"The Gateway to Cades Cove," is the peaceful corner of the Smokies. Festivals fill the calendar--Grits & Grain, the Bigfoot Festival, the Fall Heritage Festival, the Hot‑Air Balloon Festival, Christmas in the Village, and more.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Townsend sits just four miles from the park entrance. Cades Cove offers one of the best‑preserved glimpses of early Appalachian life, including one of the oldest cabins in the Smokies and the last homestead before the park was established. The famous Cantilever Barn, with its oversized upper story, is another treasure. Drive the Loop Road and you're likely to spot wildlife. I've seen bears, coyotes, deer, foxes, and more.

Just inside the park, the Great Smoky Mountains Institute at Tremont occupies what was once a logging town. Today it's a residential environmental education center with programs for all ages. Hike to Girl Scout Island and stop by the visitor center to learn how a troop of Girl Scouts saved the island from logging nearly a century ago.

Museums

The Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center brings remote mountain life into focus. Don't miss the moonshine still exhibit.

The Little River Railroad & Lumber Company Museum highlights Townsend's logging and rail history with artifacts like the Shay Engine No. 2147.

Dining

Company Distilling  is a great lunch stop with excellent bourbons and rye. My Pepperoni Flatbread hit the spot. You can dine inside or on the patio, peek at the distillery through a glass wall, or relax in the beer garden behind the building. The Little River is just steps away.

Dancing Bear Appalachian Bistro offers upscale Appalachian dining in a wooded setting. Executive Chef Jeff Carter, featured in Cityview Magazine's Top Chefs 2025, creates farm‑to‑table dishes. My Shrimp and Crawfish Grits were a standout. Johnny Cash fans should try The Man in Black cocktail.

Lodging

Little Arrow Outdoor Resort makes the perfect home base. Choose from glamping tents, tiny homes, cabins, or RV sites. With a pool, hot tub, coffee lounge, and trails along the Little River, it blends comfort with wilderness. My tiny house, with a full‑size fridge, central heat, and a comfy bed, was ideal for days of exploring. Be sure to hike the Little Arrow Nature Trail, a .8‑mile loop leading to"Bigfoot Burt," a 40‑foot‑long wooden Bigfoot perched at the top. There's another bigfoot waiting to meet you at the office,

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