Howey-in-the-Hills: A Hidden Foodie Paradise

 Story and photos
by Kathleen Walls

Feed your soul as well as your body in Howey-in-the-Hills, a hidden gem in Lake County, Florida. It's a tiny town that is a slice of real old Florida. I once lived in Lake County and never knew Howey-in-the-Hills existed until this visit. The town was begun in the early 1900s by William Howey, a major figure in starting central Florida's citrus industry. His citrus empire thrived until the Great Depression because he introduced innovations that improved the citrus industry, like Florida's first citrus juice plant, which he built in 1921. His mansion offers detailed tours.

Start your visit at Mission Resort + Club where you find three distinct restaurants. The resort had its start when Mr. Howey built the Floridan Country Club and hired George O'Neil to build the El Campeon Golf Course in 2017. It's one of the oldest in Florida. Both it and Mission Resort + Club's second golf course, Las Colinas, designed by Gary Koch in 1992, are very popular.

In 1964, Nick Beucher purchased the then decrepit Floridan Country Club, renovated it, and renamed it Mission Inn. Today, MMI Hospitality Group, led by the Sturdivant family, has farther modernized the resort. It now includes 176 rooms, two championship golf courses, a spa, and so much more, but it still retains its old Spanish style.

The Club means you can purchase amembership to enjoy all the amenties without staying overnight at the Resort. From the balcony in my room, I could look out over the golf course and watch the birds like the amazing sandhill cranes that seem to have made one of the resort lakes their home.

 Conquistador

I enjoyed exquisite upscale dining at Conquistador. We had both lunch and dinner there, so I got a wonderful variety of food. I had the Grilled Chicken Flatbread for lunch and enjoyed a multicourse meal for dinner.

One surprise was the Roasted Butternut Squash Soup. I like squash well enough, but I was amazed by how delicious the soup was. So creamy and smooth with a real squash taste but not overpowering. Their Braised Short Rib was another surprise. I didn't even need my knife it was so tender. It just slid onto my fork.

Desserts are special here. I can't pick a favorite they were all incredible. The Crème Brule recalls my birthplace of New Orleans. The Earthquake Cake, a tall chocolate pillar that melts in your mouth with its rich dark chocolate, really moves the earth under you. Their Carrot Cake is just like Grandma used to make.  

Of course, you can get a cocktail, wine, or a brew here. We were introduced to their new trademark Bourbon, Blue Note Bourbon. As they told us, "It was born in Kentucky and raised in Memphis," and is a powerful drink with a lovely afterburn.

Not only is the food something to rave about, but the ambience is also fantastic. Many nights, you will dine with live music in the background. If you dine on the patio, it overlooks the beautiful Candlelight Court. Inside, there's a feel of old Mexico with the textured mosaics on the back walls that resemble an abstract map of Mexico. Not surprising as Nick Beucher, as a young man, rode horseback across much of Mexico.

La Hacienda

At La Hacienda House, the everyday breakfast buffet or from the menu is good, but when we had their Champagne Sunday Brunch, I was amazed. I never saw so many choices anywhere else.

There were so many filled buffet stations. Each with so many choices. On the hot food section, choices were at least a dozen. The dessert table was filled with sweet treats like cakes, custards, pastries, pies, and more. The carving station offered a choice of ham or beef. I loved the ham with tasty mustard sauce to give it a bit of kick. I pigged out on biscuits and gravy, stuffed eggs, assorted cheeses, and so much more.

A musician played soothing music as we dined. What a treat!

Grove House

On the other side of the resort, there is Grove House. It's next to the pro shop and the perfect spot for those wanting a casual bite. They offer special events, including a cooking class led by Banquet Chef Danny Connolly and a classic Afternoon Tea at scheduled times during the month.

We enjoyed a picnic lunch from Grove House under a giant oak near a fountain. My Garden Salad with Shrimp was perfect. The vegetables were garden fresh, and the shrimp were huge.

Artisan Market

They recently added a new event for food and craft lovers with an Artisan Market. It's held on the last Saturday of the month and offers unique foods like Drunken Goat Cheese, fresh baked sourdough bread, and produce from the area. Santos had a tent offering traditional Italian baked goods and Zona Rico Spices where they offer spices to tune up your dishes. There's a musician playing and singing while you shop. I found a delightful addition for my home garden: a 6-inch pot of thyme from Mincy Farms.

JB Boondocks Bar n' Grill Restaurant

If you venture out into the town, there is just one restaurant, but it's a cutie. JB Boondocks Bar n' Grill Restaurant is perched on the shores of Little Lake Harris. You can dine inside where an old-time cigar store wooden Indian watches over the tables, or outside where you can watch boats at the restaurant's dock. Being on the water, fresh seafood is the main offering, but there are some other choices. It should have been featured on Guy Fieri's "Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives," but it's such a hidden treasure he probably never found it.

Yalaha Bakery

Yalaha Bakery, just three miles away in the equally tiny town of Yalaha, transports you to Alpine Germany with fresh-baked German bread, muffins, cakes, cookies, and pastries. I felt like I was in chocolate heaven with my éclair. From the patio, there's a window where you can peek into the bakery and watch those goodies being baked.

Later in the day, they turn into a German Biergarten with live music in the afternoon on Saturdays and Sundays

Puddle Jumpers Lakeside Grill & Bar

It's just seven miles to Tavares, Lake County seat, where you find Puddle Jumpers Lakeside Grill & Bar. As the name says, it overlooks Lake Dora. We spotted a seaplane on the lake. No surprise as Tavares is known as "The Seaplane Capital." You can dine downstairs or upstairs and inside or on the balcony.

They have many fresh seafood choices, wings or burgers and salads, and a well-stocked bar. We started with a tasty giant pretzel.Their cheesy sauce made it even better. I loved my fried shrimp with coleslaw and homemade chips.

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