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By Persis Granger
Nettle Meadow Farm and Cheese Company is
not the kind of place you'd be likely to stumble upon while
headed to some other destination. Visitors to this Adirondack
goat and sheep dairy arrive at the complex of red barns and
barnyards by design, driven by the desire to see for themselves
the place that produces the wide variety of artisan cheeses they
love, and to take home some farm-fresh cheese.
The way present owners Lorraine Lambiasi
and Sheila Flanagan arrived at Nettle Meadow is another story of
people arriving by design. It all began in the office of a
California law firm. Sheila, an attorney, was taking a
deposition over the phone, and, during lulls in the process,
idly clicked on real estate websites, wishing she were somewhere
else, doing something different. Suddenly across her monitor
flashed images of a goat farm, nestled in New York's Adirondack
Mountains. It spoke to her. She and her partner, Lorraine, had
enjoyed raising a few goats and wanted to have more, and both
had been raised in the East and had family ties there still.
They decided they had to see the fifty-acre farm on South
Johnsburg Road, Thurman, and one visit made up their minds. In
July of 2005 they purchased the property transported their own
goats cross-country, and rolled up their sleeves. The new farm's
house, ingeniously created from the old dairy barn, needed work,
and a new goat barn had to be built. Additionally, a house would
be built for Sheila's mom, Joan, joining them on the farm to
help.
And they threw themselves into the
cheesemaking, expanding the pasture area and increasing the size
of the herd. In addition to their dairy animals and household
pet, the women also had rescue animals to house. They located
those critters in an old horse barn on the property, the
structure that towers over all the others. A well-known barn in
Thurman since its construction by Edmund Barber, this
turn-of-the-century gem boasts a gambrel roof, atypical of barns
in our area. That was back in the day when the property was
known as Meadowbrook Stock Farm, in an era when good horses were
currency on farms.
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Once the home of prize livestock, that
old barn now houses Flanagan and Lambiase's Joseph F. Kemp
Memorial Animal Sanctuary, housing animals too disabled or old
to be productive. The cast of rescue animals that have lived
there parade through Sheila's memory. There were Izabella and
Draco, geriatric donkeys that had been found wandering in
Brooklyn. They were delivered to Nettle Meadow and lived out
their final years among friends, Draco celebrating each morning
with exuberant braying. Now picture Floyd, a frail juvenile
Alpine buck brought to the farm in a declining state, He was
adopted by their young Jersey bull calf, Henry, who slept with
little smiling Floyd curled up in the protective circle of his
husky frame. And then came Blinky and Kinky, injured turkeys who
became fast friends despite her blindness and his lameness. All
these—and more—have been nurtured and housed beneath the
compromised gambrel roof at Nettle Meadow.
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Ironically the barn that had faithfully
served rescue animals for years itself needed rescuing. The job
of saving this barn was huge, and money limited.
It began to sag
dangerously. Kids in some bygone era had fired pellets through
the roof, creating innumerable leaks. Years of invading weather,
neglect and misuse took their toll. Bracing and patching by a
local builder helped, short term, but Hurricane Irene battered
the old barn badly, and by fall of 2011 the tremendous inverted
hull that is the barn's roof developed alarming ripples and
sagged dangerously. Sheila and Lorraine feared that one heavy
snowstorm would bring the hundred-year-old beauty crashing down.
They sought historical restoration grants, but, despite the
farm's proud history, no grant materialized, and even hopes for
help from crowd-funding fell through.
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But by that time Sheila and Lorraine's herd
was growing, their cheese-making prowess had nabbed some awards
and their products were being lauded in national media like
Esquire and the
Los Angeles Times, expanding their market and helping sales
to climb. With
much-appreciated assistance of family, neighbors, farm visitors
and a credit company, they took it upon themselves to invest in
saving this old barn. They asked contractors for estimates, and
those who bothered to respond suggested unacceptable solutions,
like lopping off the graceful gambrel roof, building a simple
peaked roof, and slapping in aluminum windows. The owners began
to despair of finding help before the elements leveled the barn.
Enter Andy LeBlanc, a barn restorer
recommended by the carpenter who had made many of the early
repairs. LeBlanc studied the situation, made recommendations
and, with Sheila and Lorraine, crafted a plan to rehabilitate
the old barn. He fixed
and/or replaced the timbers one by one and began the process of
meticulously replacing floors, walls and windows until the old
barn was whole again.
This project took more than a year, and still there was
the question of who would take on replacement of the badly
damaged roof metal.
So many companies had been called for estimates and all found
the project just too big or precarious to take on.
Nettle Meadow was lucky to stumble across locals Joel and
Aaron Mosher, who were not intimidated, and were able to replace
the metal roof and some of the damaged sheathing boards,
shimming and adjusting until the roofline became straight and
the leaking stopped. By fall of 2013 the gleaming new roof was
in place and the old barn was decked out in a brand new coat of
red paint with white trim, a new cheese shop had been
established beside the house, and a "Get Awhey" rental/guest
cabin installed between the house and barn. All was at the ready
to welcome guests at the annual Thurman Fall Farm Tour.
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Over the years there have been many
advances and improvements on the farm, beyond the restoration of
the big old barn. Three nearby properties have been purchased,
one for lambs and kids, and the other two to increase pasture
and housing for the ever-expanding herd.
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Nettle Meadow has added to the product list
ch�vres in a multitude of
variations and Fromage Blanc in the following flavors:
Plain Fromage Blanc, Fromage Blanc with Rosemary Infusion, and,
the Silver Sophie Award winner, Honey Lavender Fromage Blanc.
They modified and trademarked Kunik™ cheese, first sold
by the previous owners, and went on to create such new Nettle
Meadow originals as Nettle Peaks, Simply Sheep, Three Sisters,
Penny's Pride, Partridge Mountain Reserve, and Honey Lavender
Fromage Blanc, Pumpkin Spice Ch�vre and Maple Ch�vre. They have
developed many new markets, including four major supermarket
chains (Wegman's, Big Y, Price Chopper and Hannaford), about
twenty distributors and scores of small gourmet and specialty
shops. Production has soared from about 25,000 pounds of cheese
in their first year of ownership to 100,000 pounds this year.
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In June of 2014, a new event was held at
Nettle Meadow Farm to celebrate completion of the barn repairs
and finishing the interior of the loft, initiating it as a new
event venue available for public rental. The first Nettle Meadow
Cheese and Spirits Pairing saw regional vintners, craft brewers
and cider makers serving samples of their various beverages,
each paired with a different Nettle Meadow cheese delicacy. Over
one hundred guests filled the barn loft, chattering excitedly
about its ambiance, the samples of drinks and the exquisite
Nettle Meadow hors d'oeuvres. The first pairing was such a
success, a second has been scheduled for June 20, 2015.
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But you can stop by Nettle Meadow Farm any
day of the week. Find it with your GPS or by following old
fashioned road signs at corners in Thurman, which is located
about 5 miles from Adirondack Northway exit 23. The cheese shop
is open from 11 to 3 seven days a week. Lorraine, Sheila and
their four-footed friends welcome you for a free tour at noon on
Saturdays and during Thurman Fall Farm Tour and Thurman Maple
Days. Learn more about this special farm at
www.NettleMeadow.com
and
www.NettleMeadowCheeseandSpirits.com.
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