|
which the white man was bound to respect; and that the negro might
justly and lawfully be reduced to slavery for his benefit. He was bought
and sold and treated as an ordinary article of merchandise and traffic,
whenever profit could be made by it." They further stated that Congress
could not halt slavery in any new territories and deemed the 1820
Missouri Compromise unconstitutional. This landmark case, defining
blacks as mere property, was pivotal for every person of African descent
in the country, was a significant issue in the 1858 Lincoln-Douglas
debates and is cited as one of the main events that led to the Civil
War.
Doctor's Office in Fort Snelling |
Historic Fort
Snelling interprets the history of the fort, and the region, with a
walking tour to 15 sites with costumed guides who recreate an 1820's
day in the fort. What makes this tour exceptional is the successful
attempt to weave together the stories of all of the cultures involved.
Visitors to the schoolhouse can participate in a class and in the
hospital learn all about 19th-century frontier medicine. A
reconstruction of Dred Scott's Quarters gives you a glimpse at the
life of the enslaved as a guide relates the story. The US Colored
Troops 25th Infantry was stationed here from 1882-88. At
that time 80% of the soldiers stationed at the fort were black.
An interpretive
center within the fort walls recounts the little-known story surrounding
the Dakota Wars that led to the largest mass hanging in US history. In
response to broken treaties in 1862 Native Americans attacked settlers
at St. Peter's, Minnesota. The conflict ended in Mankato, MN with 303
Sioux men scheduled to be hung before Abraham Lincoln commuted the
sentences of all but 38 of the men. They were executed simultaneously on
December 26, 1862 after singing the Sioux death song. The uprising was
used as an excuse to relocate the remaining Native Americans to Crow
Creek Reservation in the Dakota Territory. The war did not really end
until 1890 with the massacre at Wounded Knee.
In 1960 Fort Snelling was designated a National Historic Landmark. www.historicfortsnelling.org
The founding of
St. Paul can be traced to a French Canadian, Pierre Parrant, a whiskey
trader who started a settlement near the fort that bore his nickname,
Pig's Eye. Father Lucian Galtier named the settlement's chapel in honor
of Saint Paul in 1841 and the town followed the lead. The city was laid
out 6-years later and in 1849 it was incorporated. Saint Paul became the
capital in 1854.
History museums
generally provide an incisive overview into the history of a city or
region and the Minnesota History Center is no exception. The MHC houses
the MN Historical Society Library and Archives and hosts an ongoing
series of concerts, lectures and permanent and changing exhibitions.
Around every corner you "literally" step into history because much of
the center is interactive and a troupe of actors is part of the
programming to bring the stories to life.
Currently three
outstanding exhibits are on display, "If These Walls Could Talk," "The
US-Dakota War of 1862," and "Minnesota's Greatest Generation." A
highlight of the exhibits is a 7.5-minute ride along with a WWII combat
crew inside a Douglas C-47. Visitors are seated inside the plane and
through the windows you watch the war unfold below. Once you reach the
combat zone the plane is strafed, you see the bullet holes appear and
listen as the men parachute out. The experience is based on a real
mission in which nearly all the men died and it gets its name from a
comment of one of the participants, "This Must Be Hell." www.minnesotahistorycenter.org
Jane DeBow's family
encountered hard times in NY and so young Jane was taken in by a family
on their way to perform missionary work in the Fort Snelling area in the
early 1830s. Jane immersed herself in the Dakota culture and was given a
name meaning "little bird that is caught" to reflect her status in both
the family and among the tribe. As a young adult she moved to Illinois
where in 1849 she wed Herman Gibbs and convinced him to purchase
160-acres in Minnesota. Jane's legacy is the Gibbs Museum of Pioneer and
Dakotah Life.
Mural of Jane's Life |
The Gibbs Museum Tour begins
with a 4-panel exterior mural, by Seth Eastman, depicting the stages
of her life. The complex features a restored MN prairie, a pioneer
crop garden and a Dakota garden. A replica sod house is built on the
foundations of the 10 x 12-ft. one-room house the Gibbs lived in for
the first five years. Their 1854 farmhouse is also on the site.
The farm sat on a rice trail
used by the Dakota to travel seasonally to gather wild rice. As visitors
follow the trail they encounter a fully outfitted tipi and bark lodge as
well as a horse connected to a travois packed with native household
goods. Other structures on-site are a 1910 barn and 1880s schoolhouse.
This is an outstanding way to experience MN's stories.
www.rchs.com/gbbsfm2.htm
The Cathedral
of St. Paul was constructed from 1906-1915 as the 4th at this
location. The Classical French Renaissance structure is 307-ft. long and
216-ft. wide with a height of 307.5-ft. to the top of the cross. The
Cathedral is magnificent inside and out and tours are free. Prior to
entering note the sculpture of Christ and the Apostles on the fa�ade.
From the top of Cathedral Hill you get a view of the city and Summit
Avenue, the longest stretch of preserved Victorian homes in the country. www.cathedralsaintpaul.org
St Paul Cathedral |
Cass Gilbert
designed the Minnesota State Capitol using Rome's Saint Peter's
Basilica as his model. It boasts the second largest unsupported marble
dome in the world.
Swedish and
Nordic culture are on view in the American Swedish Institute, once the
1929 Turnblad Mansion built to resemble a castle complete with gargoyles
and turrets. The 33-room mansion has eleven porcelain "kakelugnar,"
stoves and some of the most magnificently hand-carved woodwork I have
ever seen. The wealthy founder of a Swedish language newspaper
established the ASI to promote and preserve Swedish culture. The
Institute hosts exhibits and holds craft classes and other cultural
programs. www.asimn.org
Railroad baron,
James J. Hill, built the 36,000 sq. ft., 42-room, mansion in 1891 that
remains a focal point of Summit Avenue. Once the largest private home in
the state, it was replete with all the then modern amenities including
indoor plumbing, a security system, electric lighting and central
heating. The mansion features a 100-ft. long, 2-story, art gallery, 22
fireplaces, a 1,066 pipe organ, hidden silver vault, formal dining room
with leather wallpaper and original furnishings. Tours are scheduled
regularly. www.mnhs.org/hillhouse
Saint Paul's
signature dish is the Juicy Lucy and the iconic place to eat this
delicious medium well burger stuffed with molten cheese and other
goodies and soak up the ambiance is Casper & Runyon's Nook. Barbara
Streisand ate there and it has been featured on television's "Diners,
Drive-Ins and Dives." www.crnook.com
This part of
our tour demands historic accommodations and the Covington Inn exceeds
your expectations on every level. It is one of a small number of
floating B&Bs in the nation and on of only 3 anchored on the Mississippi
River. The 1946 towboat was converted in 1995 and the rooms are
delightful and include balconies and fireplaces. Breakfast is wonderful
and the view of the city is spectacular.
www.covingtoninn.com
On May 5, 1902
Saint Paul's Federal Courts Building officially opened with a parade of
postal employees, led by a brass band, into the building. The
Richardsonian Romanesque and Chateauesque structure was 122-ft. wide by
271-ft. long and rose a grandiose 170-ft. tall. Architect James Taylor
sought to visually impart the power of the government through his design
at a cost of $2,533,000-million, approximately $70-million today. Saved
from demolition in 1968 it was restored at a cost of $12.5-million and
opened as the renamed Landmark Center ten years later.
Interior
strolls reveal courtrooms with marble fireplaces, 20-ft ceilings and
mahogany woodwork. An interior central atrium is open to the original
skylight. Thematic free tours are offered including "Uncle Sam Worked
Here" and architectural and gangster tours.
The first floor
introductory exhibit provides an overview of events and characters tied
to the history of the site. The 3rd floor is generally the
most popular because the Prohibition exhibits are located there. It is
actually in his upper floor office that U.S. Representative Andrew
Volstead penned the 1919 National Prohibition Act that would be known as
the Volstead Act. The act did not, as commonly believed, ban the
consumption of alcohol but stated that it was illegal to
manufacture,transport or sell it and mandated enforcement. Confiscated
bootleg liquor was routinely stored in the basement.
In one of
history's greatest ironies the city that gave birth to the Prohibition
Era and all the attendant crime was also the criminals most infamous
haven. Under Police Chief John J. O'Connor's regime a system was put in
place whereby when a gangster arrived in town he went immediately to a
place to pay a fee and sign a pledge that he would not commit crimes in
Saint Paul. In return he was allowed to live there without police
interference and if law enforcement from other jurisdictions sought them
they would receive no assistance from the Saint Paul force. Most of the
era's gangsters lived there at one time or another including the Ma
Barker and her boys, John Dillinger, Alvin Karpis, Baby Face Nelson,
George "Machine Gun" Kelly, Edna "the Kissing Bandit" Murray, Al Capone,
etc.
Courtroom 317
was the site of many of the gangster's trials and Detention Room #327was
where they were held to await the proceedings. Evelyn "Billie"
Frechette, Dillinger's girlfriend was tried there and legend has it that
Dillinger drove around and around the building in a show of support. She
received a 2-year sentence. An audio experience is presented in the
courtroom.
Though Alvin
"Creepy" Karpis was captured in New Orleans he was brought to Saint Paul
for trial. Hoover, who had deemed Karpis "Public Enemy No. 1," was on
hand to escort him to jail. He was the last No. 1 captured and the only
gangster Hoover personally took credit for capturing. Karpis spent
26-years in Alcatraz, longer than any other prisoner. He was released in
1969 and deported to his home country, Canada. He died in 1979 in Spain
probably living on money he had stashed. It is estimated that the
Barker-Karpis Gang garnered at least $3-million during their career.
The Landmark
Center is a must see. There is a gift shop on site and visitors services
including scheduled free walking tours. www.landmarkcenter.org
Now that you know how a criminal career
could end in Saint Paul you might want to visit places where they lived.
The Saint Paul Gangster Tour is a deluxe bus tour guided by Dillinger
himself or an equally notorious criminal. There are more than 60
locations and this is the best way to see them. Participants are treated
to both the hideouts, inside stories and crime scenes that make the era
fascinating. www.downinhistory.com
Entrance to Caves |
Lyman Dayton
discovered in 1849 that the man-made caves in Wabasha were nearly 100%
silica beganextracting the silica for glassmaking. The caves were then
used for produce and fruit storage. In the early 1900s three Frenchmen
moved into the caves and grew mushrooms, the first commercially grown
mushrooms in the US. Bill and
Josie Lehman eventually took over the mushroom business and during
Prohibition operated a speakeasy in part of the seven-cave system
where the gangsters came to party undisturbed.
Guided tours
take you 200-ft. into the caves where you are regaled with tales of the
30's high life and stories of the ghosts who haunt the caves. There are
tales of a 1934 murder in the Fireplace Room and guests are encouraged
to look for bullet holes where three people were murdered during a card
game. This was an exclusive club and restaurant and only the truly rich
could afford the $125.00 meal. The Castle Royal opened on October 26, 1933. It offered first-class
entertainment, Jimmy Dorsey, Cab Calloway, etc., in the front and
gambling in the rear and was decorated opulently with oriental carpets
and glittering chandeliers.
The restaurant closed in 1940 and the Wabasha Street Caves were saved
the day before they were due to be demolished. The Caves are o the
National Register of Haunted Places and they have been used as a film
set.www.wabashastreetcaves.com
Rondo Avenue
was the spine of the historic African American neighborhood in the
1930s. In the 1960s I-94 altered the community both physically and
culturally. The once vibrant neighborhood is celebrated during Rondo
Days in July.www.rondodaysmn.webs.com
The current
Pilgrim Baptist Church was erected in 1928 but former slaves led by
Robert Hickman organized the church in 1866. Hickman and 76 blacks
escaped from Missouriand arrived in Saint Paul aboard a raft towed by
The Northern, a supply ship. They had been found adrift and considered
themselves "pilgrims." They were not welcomed and were escorted to Fort
Snelling for protection. After an additional 218 fugitives arrived and
Hickman and some of the group returned to Saint Paul. It was they who
founded Pilgrim Baptist. They purchased land for $200 and the
first building was a stone and wood structure built for $2400.www.pilgrimbaptistchurch.org
Clarence Wesley
Wigington, Saint Paul's first black architect, designed Harriet Island
Pavilion.The building is in the Moderne-style constructed of Kasota
limestone in 1941. He also designed the 134-ft. Highland Park Tower.
Wigington was a draftsman and ultimately chief architect for the St.
Paul Dept. of Parks and Recreation and Public Buildings for 34-years and
designed most of the public buildings during that time.
F. Scott
Fitzgerald was born in 1896 and moved around Saint Paul until 1922. The
"F. Scott Fitzgerald in St. Paul Homes and Haunts" is a fourteen-site
tour that features places he lived, places mentioned in his stories and
places he frequented. His home at 599 Summit Ave. is listed on the
National Register of Historic Places. Brochures with maps and
information are available. www.thefriends.org
One of the
sites on all the Saint Paul tours is the Saint Paul Hotel. The hotel is
situated on land that has been a hotel for nearly 200-years.
Records indicate that John Summers housed people here in the 1850s and
in 1871 he constructed the 60-room Greenman House. In 1908 construction
began on the Saint Paul Hotel and it opened in 1910. It was closed in
1972, saved from demolition and renovated and reopened in 1982.
The hotel is a
member of the Historic Hotels of America. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald
lived there for a brief time and the third floor was Leon Gleckman's,
Saint Paul's answer to Capone, headquarters. Gleckman occupied suites
301-03 and the FBI occupied 309.
The Saint Paul
is a centrally located luxury hotel that offers 254 classically designed
rooms, exclusive products, and amenities including free WIFI, 24-hour
room service, Concierge services and Fitness and Business Centers. The
St. Paul Grill serves traditional American cuisine in a classic,
atmosphere. www.saintpaulhotel.com
The Eagle Street Grill is a wonderful restaurant with a gangster theme. Menu items are named after various felons. The food is delicious and the booths are spacious. There are three bars, free WIFI, entertainment and outdoor dining. www.eaglestreetgrille.net
Mickey's Diner
was sent by rail from New Jersey in 1937. It is a classic Art Deco,
50-ft. by 10-ft, diner that has been featured in several films. You can
grab a meal 24-hours a day since it opened. Mickey's was designated a
National Historic Landmark in 1983. www.mickeysdiningcar.com
As always,
there is much more to Saint Paul.You can explore the rivers, Minnesota
has 90,000-miles of shoreline, more than California, Hawaii and Florida
combined, you can explore the legacy of hometown boy Charles Schultz
through the "Peanuts on Parade" outdoor sculptures or you can wander the
5.5-miles of the Saint Paul Skyway that connects restaurants,
attractions, shops, hotels and entertainment venues.Saint Paul is a
cultural, and affordable, goldmine. Explore your options. www.visitsaintpaul.com
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