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A trip to the American Jazz Museum in the Historic 18th and Vine Jazz District convinced me that was so. The reason for this lies in prohibition and its sometimes strange effects. In the early 1900s jazz began to take on a life form of its own. By the time prohibition arrived .in 1920, New Orleans was already rocking to the jazz beat of greats like Louis Armstrong, King Oliver, Kid Ory and Jelly Roll Morton. As everyone knows, jazz and booze just naturally go together. When prohibition shut the spigot on America's alcohol habit elsewhere, Kansas City was under the control of Tom Pendergast's Democratic political machine. Pendergast refused to allow the liquor supply to dry up in 'his' city. He also was the owner of a concrete plant so many WPA type projects were flourishing in Kansas city also. There depression did not grip the residents as it did elsewhere. Musicians traveling anywhere found Kansas /city a convenient hub as well since it was so centrally located in the county. The city was wide open. The sounds of jazz poured into the streets 24 hours a day. Between 12th and 18th streets, there were 50 live music clubs. Edward Morrow refereed to Kansas City in his Omaha World Herald column, 'If you want to see some sin, forget about Paris and go to Kansas City. With the possible exception of such renowned centers as Singapore and Port Said. Kansas City probably has the greatest sin industry in the world.'
I was fortunate enough to have Dennis Winslett, the Jazz Museum education specialist, explain the museum and its purpose to me. He started off with the four 'tribute areas' to the all time greats of jazz: Louis Armstrong, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald. Louis Armstrong was the most familiar tome as he was a New Orleans native who spent much of his life in the Crescent City. He achieved the greatest measure of fame a African American musician of his generation ever knew. He scored the first jazz number one hit with 'All of Me' in first jazz hit in March 1933 and was the oldest recording artist to have a number one hit: Hello Dolly in May 1964 when he was 63. Charlie (Bird) Parker was born in Kansas City.He is credited with starting the 'Bebop' movement. He introduced a lot of improvizations to jazz which influenced many of the jazz greats who followed him Although addicted to heroin, Parker still produced many great records.His addiction often caused him to be very short of money and found him pawning his sax. As a result much of his music was played on a cheap plastic instrument, now on display that the museum. He left Kansas City, and his first and only legal wife,in 1942 to seek his fortune in New York. When he died due of pneumonia, caused in part by his alcohol and narcotic habits, a corner said that the body was that of a 60 year old instead of Parker's actual 34 years. His common-law-wife at the time of his death, Chan Parker, said that he did not ever want to return to Kansas City but his first wife, whom he had never legally divorced, had her way and the body was returned and buried in Lincoln Cemetery just outside Kansas City city limits perhaps he got his wish technically. Duke Ellington was another jazz great that played in Kansas City on November 2, 1936. He appeared at Paseo Hall in Kansas City before more than 2,000 music lovers who were crammed into every available inch of space. 'Every man prays in his own language.' Duke Ellington said and surely his music is a prayer that lives on long after its composer is gone. He is well remembered at the Jazz Museum. Ella Fitzgerald is another old favorite. As the woman, her star shines brightly at the museum. She once said 'It isn't where you came from, its where you're going that counts.' In her own case that was so very true. she grew up a poor girl in Yonkers, New York. After her mothers death, she got into some trouble and ended up in a reform school. Conditions were so bad there she ran away and at 15, found herself alone and penniless in the middle of the great depression. Somehow she struggled along until in 1934 her name was pulled in a weekly drawing at the Apollo Theater for the opportunity to compete in Amateur Night. The Apollo had a rough and rowdy crowd who never hesitated to boo a performer off the stage if they didn't like the act. Ella went to the theater that night planning to dance but when the act before her was a great dancing team of sisters, she changed her mind at the last minute. The audience was already becoming restless while she contemplated what to do. then she asked the band to play Hoagie Carmchael's Judy, one of her mother's old favorites. The audience was captured and demanded an encore. Her career was launched. By 21 she was the leader of her own band. From then on it was musical history. Known as the 'First Lady of Song,' Fitzgerald is considered one of the most influential jazz vocalists of the 20th century. In her lifetime, she won 13 Grammy awards and sold over 40 million albums. She was awarded the National Medal of the Arts and a Kennedy Center Honors award.
All four musicians have had United States postage stamps issued in their honor. Of course, the museum had much more starting with a great film about the history of jazz. Another unique part of the museum is the Blue Room, a real legacy for the 30s and 40s when jazz was king in KC. By day, an exhibit in the museum by night a performing club. The nine small glass enclosed tables on the floor level are display cases containing musical treasures from Kansas City's musical heyday I returned that Thursday night to hear Bob Bowman and Bowdog play. It felt like I was transported to the thirties. It has earned recognition form many sources and has been named three times by DownBeat Magazine as one of the Top 100 jazz clubs in the world Kansas City's only club to earn that honor.
Kansas City may be best known for its barbecue. I enjoyed a sampling of that tasty stuff at Arthur Bryant's, known as 'The King of Ribs.' There are over 90 barbecue restaurants in Kansas city, more than any other city in the country but Author Bryant's has been named 'best restaurant in the world' by New Yorker Playboy columnist Calvin Trillin and just as highly praised in other magazines like Forbes, Bon Appetit, Better Homes and Gardens, People, Gourmet and others. The restaurant had humble beginnings and the main restaurant still looks like just a poor inner city place but oh the taste of that food!
Although Arthur passed away in 1982, Gary Berbiglia and Bill Rauschelbach now carry on the tradition. There are now several branches and their catering is famous. I enjoyed a very stuffed plate and could truthfully say the food is incomparable.
The third item that distinguishes Kansas City is its fountains. They claim more fountains than any other city except Rome. I didn't get to visit all of them but saw enough to know that not only is there quantity but quality is present also. Kansas city is graced with over 200 fountains. The 'Fountain Movement' began in the 189s with the 'city Beautiful' movement. The city's oldest fountain was built in 1899 by George Kessleri at 15th and The Paseo. That original fountain was destroyed in 1941 but the same year, he designed another fountain that still exist and is the oldest in the city. It is the Women's Leadership Fountain.
Early fountains served multiple purpose. they ere beautiful but they were also useful. For example, The Humane Society of Kansas City built many of the early fountains over natural;y occurring springs to provide water for people, horses and dogs. In one fountain, A lions head formed a spigot that spurted clean water for humans, it fell into a trough the right height for horses and then trickled into lower bowls for dogs and cats. The Cat Fountain in Country Club Plaza is reminiscent of that fountain. Today, any new corporation that builds in Kansas city is expected to include a fountain in its decorating. Kansas City's newest attraction, the 8 city block revitalization of its downtown called the Power and Light district after the famous deco lars buildinbg of that name which sets the backdrop for the district has a $1 million fountain. In fact, almost anywhere you look you will fouund a fountain. Crown Plaza has one that welcomes kids of all ages to frolick amid its jets.Hallmark which will s=celebrate its 100th aniversery in Kansas city has a long reflecting pool that drops in mini waterfalls over six times alog thelength of th efountian and culminates in a pebble bottomed pool thart simulates a riverbed.
The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art rivals the best art musuems to be found anywhere. It has a reflection pool that reflects the newest addition to the musuem, Bloch Building. Its Sculpture Park is ast ourtside amiodst the lush grass. The Shuttlecock sculptures which are workld famous are the scene fo free movies at night, The musuem is very open and has many entraces where a patron wiht a tired child might enjoy the interior art and then take the child outside to the courtyard and retuen easily through one of th enumerous doors. Not all of the fountains are outdoors. The Nelson-Atkins boast one of the oldest fountains in what has been called 'the prettiest museum cafe in the Midwest' by Travel Holiday magazine, Rozzelle Court Restaurant. The resturant is designied to replicate an open-air Italian courtyard. Normally it serves buffet-style meals with gourmet main dishes, salads, soups, breads and desserts. Some Fridays there is live jazz music. The centerpiece of the courtyard resturant is the Rozzelle Court Fountain. This fountian dates to areound 200 A.D. It was used in a Roman bath however not as a fountain. The shallow marble bowl was used to hold sented oils that patrons of the bathwoudl anoint themselves wiht. Kansas cit has so many fountains I could not cover them all. For the best in fountains, barbeque and jazz,you can do what one famous jazz song, suggest. 'Going to Kansas City' tells it like it is. It was written by Jerry Leiber and Mike Stoller, back in 1952. Incidentally, it was first prefoirmed by Little Willie Littlefield at the Orchid Room at 12th and Vine Streets, Kansas City. http://www.americanjazzmuseum.com/
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