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New Orleans Remembered ~~

Story by Kathleen Walls All Photos courtesy NOCVB


Bourbon Street Night Photographer: Richard Nowitz

New Orleans is my birthplace. I spent my youth and part of my adult life there and have so many fond memories of that city. Like the rest of the world, I am horrified and disbelieving as I watch the news coming out of New Orleans and the entire Gulf Coast.

As my personal friends know, I was scheduled to fly there on September 8th. I planned to bring back lots of great stories to tell travelers about one of the nation's favorite destinations. Of course, that is not to be now. Christine Decuir, the CVB representative who arranged the trip for me, is not available. Her name isn't showing on the CVB site as someone who is safe. Christine was a friend as well as a collogue. We shared a good time at last year's Travel Media Showcase. I was also planning on seeing her at that convention after the New Orleans trip. I am sure she won't be there this year.

I have to postponed, not cancel, postpone that trip. In a few months perhaps it will again be possible to visit the Crescent City. Then they will be in desperate need of those tourism dollars so for all of you who had plans to visit, don't cancel them just postpone them.


Cemetery Statue Photographer: Carl Purcell

One of the earliest "fun" memories I have of New Orleans is visiting a cemetery with my parents. In New Orleans, cemeteries are not dread places. They are "Cities of the Dead" where you go to visit and remember your loved ones. This photo is so symbolic of the situation in New Orleans now. The stature appears to be weeping for her devastated city. Visitors have made the St. Louis Cemetery where Marie Laveau, the Voodoo Queen of New Orleans, is buried one of the top visited sites in New Orleans.

Another popular destination is the Voodoo Museum. It was founded and operated by a former brother-law, Charles Gondalfo until his death on Mardi Gras 2001. Charles was the only person I know who actually "mislaid" a body. The way that came about was that Charles wanted an antique coffin for his museum. At the time he used to conduct Voodoo Rituals in a plot of land he had in Covington, La. just across the lake from New Orleans. These rituals were open to the public and rather popular.

Some of his employees brought him an old coffin which they sold him for $50. Charles was elated and began cleaning up the coffin which had a glass plate in front for viewing. When he cleaned the plate, he noticed there was a mummified body inside. To be respectful, he removed the body and reburied it somewhere on the property. Meantime, there had been a murder in Covington. Police had found the decapitated head of a woman. Hearing that Charles had a "body" in his possession naturally led the police to investigate.

They arrested Charles and held him on suspicion murder. Now anyone who knew Charles would have known he was incapable of murder. He was one of the most harmless individuals I have ever met. However the police didn't know him and held him until my brother Jerry, and his brother, Jerry Gondalfo, went to the station and explained the circumstances. Charles was released and the murder charge was dropped. However, he was charged with transporting a body across parish lines. Being Charles, he had forgotten exactly where he buried the body so the police could never do anything about that charge. He was quite upset because they confiscated his pictures of the mummified body and all his shovels as evidence. I asked him, only half in jest, later, "Were you trying to make a zombie?"

He answered, "Never give a zombie salt." I never knew if he was kidding or not.

His son Jeff, who I remember as an extremely intelligent little boy, now runs the museum.


Mardi Gras Float with Crowd Photographer: Jeff Strout

Enough of the morbid side of the city, One of my favorite seasons was Mardi Gras. It would have been a hard choice for me to decide between that and Christmas when I was in my teens. My friend Jessie McNabb. (If you are okay Jessie, email me) who I long ago lost track of, used to try and go to as many of the night parades and all of the day ones. We would walk up from Gallier St. ( near the Ninth Ward that was so badly hit with the flooding) to St. Charles and see the parade near Lee Circle. Then we would follow it and try to see it again on Canal. After that we would again rush to get ahead of it and see it as it went down Dauphine or Royal in the French Quarter. Catching as many beads as possible was the thing then before the advent of doubloons.

I remember sitting in the Sanger Theater on Canal and Rampart one year drying our sox by hanging them on the back of the seat in front of us one rainy Mardi Gras day and having to keep moving from seat to seat to avoid two "Green Martians" who wanted to flirt with us.


St Louis Cathedral daytime with carriage Photographer: Carl Purcell

One of my favorite lazy days in New Orleans was having hot chocolate and beniots at Cafe Du Monde then browsing among the artist in Jackson Square. Sometimes I would go into St. Louis Cathedral where the sheer grandeur f the architecture would amaze me. Other days, I would visit the Presbyter or Cabildo.

There was a small early prototype submarine filled with concrete supposedly to preserve it. At the time I only knew it was an interesting artifact. I have since learned it may have been made by my great-great-grandfather, John Roy, during the Civil War.

This was before the days of the Riverwalk but sometimes I would browse in the Quarter and enjoy all the unique items in the shops. I never failed to buy a praline when I was there.

Often I would head from there to Canal Street to shop. Then McCrory, Kress and Woolworths were the target destinations. i was addicted to earrings and those little charm bracelets teen girls loved in those days. Usually they were about $.59. Sometimes I would get the Blue Plate Special at Woolworths or get a grilled cheese and coke at Kress. Some days I would just go to the K and B Drug Store and get a huge chocolate ice cream soda in a real soda glass topped with whipped cream and a cherry.Days I met my mother for lunch we would go to Krauss Department store where there was a nice instore restaurant.


St. Charles Avenue Streetcar Photographer: Carl Purcell

Since my dad was a bus driver for NOPSI we looked forward to the annual party the company threw for the employees. They would have sandwiches. drinks (soft for the kids and alcoholic of the adults who wanted them) cake, cookies and all kinds of snack food. One room showed non-stop cartoons. Bugs Bunny, Roadrunner and the like entertained the younger children. Another room was set aside for dancing. But my favorite memory there was playing on the old streetcar. There was always line to sit in the operator's seats; front for the driver and rear for the conductor. Although both were the same as the streetcars just changed directions and did not actually turn around when they were in service.

The St. Charles line was the one that remained active when the rest of the city gradually switched to buses. More recently, Canal Streetcar service had resumed. Before Katrina, there was talk of a Streetcar Named Desire being reinstated but when I was a kid, you drove past the famous landmark from that movie on the Franklin Bus Line. The old building where Stanley Kowalski shouted "Hey, Stella" has long since been demolished but it still lives in my memory.


Audubon Park Fountain Photographer: Richard Nowitz

As kids who always loved animals, another favorite spot for my brothers and myself, was Audubon Park Zoo. Jerry, the brother next to me in age, was a snake fan. (Thank God, I know he and his family are safe.) Shawn who was the youngest of us loved to watch the monkeys. (I have not heard from Shawn and can only hope he is okay.*See authors note) My favorite was always the big cats. I loved and still love the majesty and grace of cats both big and small. (My heart also goes out to all the pets, cats and dogs, who are now fending for themselves in New Orleans.)

Last night, on CNN, I watched as Larry King interviewed people, residents and emergency personnel, I almost cried when Harry Coniff, Jr. choose to perform "Way Down Yonder in New Orleans" instead of some sad song. It spoke of the spirit of the people of that city. They have endured, the War of 1812, Civil War, other floods, other hurricanes, ( I was there in Betsy), Yellow Fever epidemics and everything else nature has thrown at them. I know it will take years, if ever, before New Orleans can be restored to its former state but I hope the French Quarter and core of the city can at least be operational one day. I look forward to the day I can "Go Home Again."

* Since I wrote this Shawn has been located, He was rescued from his home and evacuated to Spohn Memorial Hospital in Corpus Christi. I arranged to fly him here to Florida. I made the mistake of using Delta. For any of you needing to help the Katrina victims get anywhere, avoid Delta. Not only are there no special fares to help these people but they are making you actually drive to the airport and show your credit card if you need to book a flight right away before they board or they will penalize you an additional $100. In addition, the man I spoke with was so cold it was obvious he did not care at all. He paid so little attention to me that after I had told him twice that Shawn was coming directly from the hospital, he then proceeded to ask for a home or hotel number to reach "the passenger."

Click here to see some of what we are doing to help..

A program in Grand Forks, ND is helping. too. Click to see what they are doing

Don't forget about the animals that need help. Noahswish.org is helping them

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