From the Sandaway, With
Love
By Leigh Cort
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| Late afternoon autumn sunset casting shadows on the Sandaway |
I yearn
to return to the Sandaway – quietly embracing the long Indian summer
days on the shore of the Chesapeake, Choptank and Tred Avon Rivers. A
graceful and stately mansion with sloping green lawns & gardens …dotted
with white Adirondack chairs and chaises – reminiscent of a turn-of-the
century postcard. It’s a sentinel of gracious Southern living – Oxford,
Maryland embraces four centuries of American history surrounded by three
renowned bodies of water.
Maryland ~ one of the original thirteen colonies
and accustomed to its position in the middle – where land meets sea and
North meets South. I felt as though I landed in the most beautiful spot
in the world. It was a quiet Sunday afternoon; schooners, sailboats and
skipjacks dotted the waterways surrounding Oxford. People walked slowly
to and from the ferry – occasionally dipping their toes into the chilly
water along pristine little beaches.
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| Ferry circa 1931 – Sign says ‘Raise Flag for Ferry’! |
For discerning visitors who enjoy
tranquility, privacy and exclusivity, there aren’t many places on the
globe that one can feel at home the moment you arrive. The tiny hamlet
of Oxford (population 600) is perfect for walking along the river
shores, exploring the lovely architecture of days gone by with many
homes circa 1700’s – 1800’s and unhurriedly bicycling the town – all of
which is an historic area. It sprawls a bit inland from the waterways
into grandiose farm country known for corn, tobacco and soybeans yet is
only 1.5 hour drive from Washington, D.C. and America’s Capitol
commotion.
Once the most thriving port of entry for the entire
Maryland province (1694), Oxford enjoyed prominence as an international
shipping center surrounded by wealthy tobacco plantations. Famous
statesmen, sea captains, war heroes and industrialists brought acclaim
to its borders. “During the early glory years, if you could buy
riches and fineries of the world in Paris and London, you could buy it
in Oxford too!”
Once I checked in and wandered from the Sandaway, I
discovered the famed Robert Morris Inn. Its pub and dining rooms lured
me to dine for breakfast, outdoor verandah lunch and a late night dinner
throughout the week. Only a block from my bed & breakfast, it was easy
to see how a guest could truly relax and enjoy not caring about
schedules except perhaps reading a book. Better yet – delve into the
Sandaway’s library of books that impart the magical history of Oxford
and the legendary Chesapeake Region of America’s Mid Atlantic coast.
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| Robert Morris Inn |
The magnificent,
seafood-rich Chesapeake Bay is one of the country’s great natural
wonders. The mighty estuary played a formative role in the development
of industry and culture in Maryland…and Maryland itself played a large
role on the American stage. I was enchanted to know that the state had
four signers of the Declaration of Independence…which defined its
traditions of low-key individualism and religious
tolerance. (Signers were Charles Carroll, Samuel Chase, William Paca
and Thomas Stone).
Inside the Oxford Library, I disappeared into
a wondrous place in American history. The words that resonated over and
over to me confirmed my affinity and delight in staying at the Sandaway
Inn. H.L. Mencken wrote “Marylanders have a tradition of sound and
comfortable living”.
Sandaway owners Ken, Wendy and Ben Gibson reflect
these words from the moment you drive through the welcoming circular
driveway to gaze astoundingly at the grand glorious and glistening
rivers. Throughout my visit their presence was everywhere ~ speaking
kindly and softly to guests and staff ~ and to each other. Every
detail of their home/hotel reflects a three-generations long family
heritage of gracious hospitality.
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| Ben Gibson ~ Innkeeper |
I was delighted to open the door to
my suite each morning and find a bounty of breakfast in my little crab
basket: yogurt, cakes, granola, coffee, fresh fruit, juices, snacks and
surprises. I felt free to take breakfast in my room, on the lawn,
private verandah or just ‘away for a picnic’. The Inn’s tiny Boat House
is a perfect hideaway too – a charming little place to spend time alone
or to meet others. The most thoughtful spot in the house is the ‘library
– TV room’ with deep comfy sofas and beverages/snacks available through
the day and night. Note: it’s the ONLY place to watch TV. I loved NOT
having one in my room, giving me time to just enjoy the view and other
pleasures.
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| Breakfast in a Crab Basket at your door |
My accommodation was a perfect
combination of alluring linens on the plush king bed and a step-out
porch that lured me to the view and symphony of autumn breezes. It
became obvious that Ben and the Gibson family enjoy seeing their guests
take pleasure in the Inn’s privacy and natural setting. It was haunting
yet romantic to be somewhere on the property at noon and 6:00pm when the
church bells tolled, echoing through the town. I learned about the
‘cardboard boat races’ and other boating activities in which Oxford
takes pride. The water has served Marylanders as much for pleasure as
for serious business; even George Washington was known to enjoy boating
entertainment on the Chesapeake!
The Sandaway’s appeal grew day after day. Unlike
other destinations where I’ve felt compelled to plan meals and
activities, I realized that once on the Eastern Shore, my watch seemed
to not have any minute hands. I felt that I was re-energizing,
re-connecting and re-flecting. The small Oxford market is a short walk
away where I found (simply) two small aisles of groceries, ice cream and
sandwiches. It was 1950 all over again and it felt great! Missing from
the landscape were mailboxes at each home. There aren’t any. Residents
go to the post office and pick up their mail. Alas – a wonderful morning
activity!
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| Sandaway ~ a Sentinel of History |
The Tred Avon Yacht Club
across the ‘Strand’ from the Sandaway is a thriving club that carries
the traditions of yesteryear into the 21st Century. Boasting
the oldest privately owned ferry in the United States – the
Oxford-Bellevue Ferry – (est. 1683), a trip across the Tred Avon to
historic St. Michael’s was my personal favorite boating adventure. Only
a short � mile trip that takes 7-9 minutes, it reminded me that Oxford
is still a waterman’s town. Disembarking near the delightful village of
St. Michael’s, I found that it’s replete with thriving shopping, dining
and tourist adventures. It’s not to be missed when creating a jam-packed
vacation but there is nothing sweeter than leaving the people and
activities behind when you board the Ferry and let the river’s breezes
blow you back to the Sandaway!
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| Oxford Bellevue Ferry nearly full with ONE truck aboard! |
Now that I’m not a stranger to
Oxford, I eagerly await my next visit to again step back in time,
savoring the simple pleasures of walking along the Strand, sitting under
the shade trees in a rocking chair and cherishing the Sandaway’s
timeless grace and privacy. I plan to return soon to meet some of the
town’s artists and attend a play at the Tred Avon Players. Kayaking on
the Choptank River from the Inn’s sandy beach awaits me too, and taking
an historic walking tour through the town with Les Nollmeyer – Oxford
Museum’s curator, official tour guide and native son.
When James Michener wrote his book ‘Chesapeake’
he often visited Oxford and lived nearby to inhale the past that
influenced his writing. I’m waiting to fall in love again and continue
my story and love affair with Oxford and the Sandaway!
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Where the Chesapeake and Choptank Rivers
grace the Sandaway Shore |
For travel inspiration, enjoy the
video: “On the Chesapeake Bay”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffwyl0A36jw
www.sandaway.com
www.robertmorrisinn.com
www.oxfordmuseum.org
www.tredavonplayers.org
www.oxfordbellevueferry.com
Sandaway Waterfront Lodging
103 W. Strand Rd. Oxford, Maryland
P.O. Box 70
Close to St. Michaels, Easton, and Cambridge
www.sandaway.com
1-888-726-3292
SIDEBAR:
Restaurants:
Robert Morris Inn serving breakfast, lunch,
dinner and Sunday brunch daily. Historic setting with celebrated British
master chef/partner Mark Salter. His innovative award-winning style is
evident in every season’s menu. The cozy tavern and classic dining rooms
are romantic; the outdoor patio and verandah irresistible! One of
America’s oldest inns (circa 1710)
Latitude 38 Bistro & Spirits serving dinner
Tuesday – Tuesday and Sunday brunch. Where the locals meet – in a casual
pub setting. The setting is friendly ~ the prices very affordable. From
crispy skin rockfish to steak & frites their nightly specials can’t be
beat.
Masthead @ Pier Street Crabhouse is opened
and bustling in season until early October. In the winter, don’t miss
weekend dinner with a killer view of the River; the breathtaking sunsets
lure even the ‘who’s who’ from Washington, DC to take a drive for their
blue crabs, clams and regional fare.
Pope’s Tavern serves dinner on the weekends
in an intimate 40-seat European Bistro atmosphere. Request that the cool
English Taxi pick you up!
Shoppes:
- Oxford Museum &
Gift Shop
- Oxford Market &
Deli
- Mystery Loves
Company Booksellers
- The Treasure
Chest
…..are all within walking distance to the Sandaway.
Innkeepers will let you know shop hours and days opened!
If you’re a boater:
- Oxford Boatyard
– Ship’s Store
- Campbell’s
Boatyard @ Jack’s Pt
- Hinckley Yacht
Services’ Ships Store
- Mears Yacht
Haven
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