Fork In The Road

Spring Break, Adirondack Style

By Persis Granger

Spring thaw in the Adirondacks marks the beginning of sugaring season. (Photo courtesy T. Whalen)

Sometimes in the dark dead of North Country winter it seems as though blustery cold will last forever. Then dawns the day when you're awakened by an almost-deafening rat-a-tat of snowmelt hammering down from the eaves onto the porch roof. The sun, you realize, is shining brighter and warmer than it has in months. Through moist, spring-scented air, crows caw hallelujahs across snow-splotched meadows.

An Adirondack sawyer explains cutting edge technology of the lumber business during Thurman Maple Days. (Photo courtesy W.Martin )

Mornings like that quicken the pulse of Adirondack maple producers, for the combination of freezing nights and warm days triggers the flow of maple sap, a long-anticipated event. Preparations for sugaring season have been in the making for a year. The trees are tapped and the Adirondack maple enthusiasts spring into action. Operations of all sizes flourish here, from the hobbyist with his small backyard setup to the commercial producer who has invested heavily in forestland and equipment. They all share one goal – to concentrate the sap from maple trees, and, with their own hands, create confections that defy description—maple syrup, cream, sugar and candy. Sugarmakers seem also to share an inordinate passion for the backwoods art. This writer has spoken with numerous producers, and they all describe something akin to addiction when they speak of their love for sugaring. One said with a twinkle, "You know, old sugarmakers never die; they just evaporate."

A Thurman volunteer  simmers syrup to just the right consistency to make jackwax for the annual Maple Sugar Party. (Photo courtesy M. Ligon)

Whatever the size of a given operation, every producer's primary task is to concentrate each forty gallons of sap into one gallon of syrup in the most efficient, affordable way possible. Traditionally the water in sap has been removed by boiling. Early settlers, who were introduced to maple's gifts by Native Americans, boiled in large kettles over open fires, converting most of the sap to sugar for cooking and table use. Toward the end of the nineteenth century, the forerunners of today's evaporators began to make an appearance. A masonry "arch," or firebox, was designed to focus its heat under a shallow rectangular sap pan set atop the unit. These pans provided a broad surface area from which moisture could evaporate. Technology improved, making evaporators more efficient, and oil- and gas-fired evaporators became available, as well as those burning wood.

Thurman maple producer pours off syrup. (photo courtesy Toad Hill Maple Farm.)

In recent years, the sugarmakers' practical inclination to find the most cost-effective production methods has been augmented by increasing environmental awareness. Reverse osmosis equipment has been developed to, through a sophisticated method of filtration, remove about 75% of the sap's water content before it is boiled. A unit called a Steam-Away ™ reduces fuel consumption by using the evaporator's steam to pre-heat inflowing sap before boiling. In the sugarbush, sound forest management practices are observed, and eco-friendly "health spouts" replace the larger old spiles, causing less damage to trees. Those who tap with plastic tubing (the norm in larger operations) often use "vacuum assists", which provide a slight negative pressure in the lines, inducing stronger sap flow.

These young ladies watch with delight as sap drips slowing into a waiting bucket. (Photo courtesy A. Drexel)

No matter how basic or how high-tech a sugaring operation may be, the one great leveler is weather. Effort expended over the entire year—work in the woods, running and repairing of tubing, installation and maintenance of equipment, tapping (which may entail miles of trekking on snowshoes), may yield a bumper season or a meager one. It all depends upon that perfect mix of freezing nights and warm days. It's a risky business, but sugarmakers agree that seeing the blissful expression of a guest sampling pure Adirondack maple products makes it all worthwhile.

Maple cotton candy is a major attraction during Thurman Maple Days at Adirondack Gold Maple Farm. Photo courtesy Sally Feihel

If your travel plans take you to the northeast in early spring, make a point of visiting some sugarhouses and experiencing firsthand the miracle of sugaring. A short trip off the beaten path takes you to the tiny mountain town of Thurman, NY, in the Lake George/Gore Mountain region of the southern Adirondack Mountains. There you will be welcomed to Thurman Maple Days over the last three weekends in March, where you may hike into the sugarbush, learn how maples are tapped and how sap is transported to holding tanks. Environmental issues have come to the forefront of sugaring operations, and some of the maple producers will explain how technological advances have helped them make more syrup with less fuel. You'll see demonstrations of boiling, filtering, bottling and candy-making, and have opportunities to ask questions, sample wares and shop. But wait – there's more. A nearby certified tree farm also will roll out the carpet for your visit, explaining sustainable forestry practices and modern sawing techniques that squeeze the most possible board feet from each log so that the forests will meet the needs of generations to come. On display and available for purchase will be various wooden items, including slabs of richly-grained maple, suitable for tables and bar tops. Find there, too, sawing and craft demonstrations. All tours and demonstrations are free.

A Maple Sugar Party guest enjoys old-fashioned jackwax. (Photo courtesy M. Ligon)

Each day of Thurman Maple Days offers a 9 a.m. pancake breakfast at one site – fluffy flapjacks slathered with butter and drizzled with pure Adirondack maple syrup. A small fee is charged. The very first Saturday is crowned with the annual Thurman Maple Sugar Party, a 50+ year event that raises money for the American Cancer Society. It features a sumptuous all-you-can-eat buffet with dessert of traditional jackwax. Serving begins at town hall at 4 p.m. and continues, hosts say, until all are served. It's all set to live music and punctuated with small-town banter that will make you feel right at home. Don't miss Thurman Maple Days and the Thurman Maple Sugar Party. Make a reservation at one of the many nearby motels and cozy B&Bs and enjoy an Adirondack Weekend. It's the perfect family cabin fever cure.

More Info:

Where:

Take Adirondack Northway (I-87) exit 23, Warrensburg (c. one hour north of Albany). Take route 9 north into town and gas up before leaving Warrensburg, as there is no gas in Thurman. Turn left onto NYS route 418 and follow it c. 4.5 miles over and along the river and back across into the town of Thurman. Cross the RR tracks, hook left, and then turn right and go uphill on Athol Road. Follow signs to four sites. Brochures with maps available in area and online at http://www.persisgranger.com/ThurmanMapleWeekends.htm

When:

March 10 , Thurman Maple Sugar Party . Thurman Town Hall, 311 Athol Road, Athol, NY 12810. $10 adults, $5 for kids 6-11. Age 5 and under free. Advance info: 518-623-9649. 4 p.m. - ?

March 10 th & 11 th , 17 th & 18 th , 24 th & 25 th ~ Thurman Maple Days , 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., with 9 a.m. breakfast at 190 Valley Road. Event information, 518-623-9718 or www.PersisGranger.com.

Persis—better known as "Perky"—Granger is the author of two YA works of historical fiction and a teacher's guide, ("Adirondack Gold" and its sequel, "A Summer of Strangers") as well as an adult nonfiction anthology about living with Alzheimer's disease ("Shared Stories from Daughters of Alzheimer's: Writing a Path to Peace"). Another novel is in progress, vying for time with her freelance work and community volunteer efforts. Inspired by and enamored of the writing community, Perky also created "Fiction Among Friends", a mini-business which hosts readings, workshops, signings and retreats for writers. See more at http://www.PersisGranger.com and visit our contributors page for more about her.