Renee's International Route--Baldwin's "Individual Journey" in New York and Paris


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    James Baldwin's roles as author and political activist uniquely fitted him to be both a voice for and shaper of African American political culture specifically and American culture in a broader sense. All of his childhood experiences honed him for his "individual journey" and for the remainder of his life he spoke out against injustice and advocated radical change and neither his influence nor his significance has diminished in the years since his death. His eloquent prose continues to spur us to speak truth to power. 

    On August 2, 1924 Emma Berdis gave birth to James Arthur Baldwin in Harlem Hospital. Three years later she wed the strict and morally rigid Reverend David Baldwin. He adopted James and they went on to have eight additional children.  
    James attended PS 24 in Harlem, located on 128th St. between Fifth and Madison Avenues. In 2014, in commemoration of his 90th birthday, New York City designated the street James Baldwin Way. At Frederic Douglass Junior High he found a mentor in poet Countee Cullen who introduced him to literature through participation in the literary club and the editing of the school's magazine, The Douglass Pilot.  
    In 1938 Baldwin experienced an epiphany and was called to the ministry. It was as a minister at Fireside Pentecostal Assembly that he developed his oratorical skills. He preached until 1941 at which time he left the church because of philosophical differences and became an atheist.

    Ironically DeWitt Clinton High School opened on the same day the stock market crashed. The all male facility was built at a cost of $3.5-million and drew its population of the best and brightest from throughout the city. Cullen encouraged Baldwin to apply for admission, he was accepted and graduated in 1942. While there he worked on the school's newspaper, The Magpie. A list of outstanding alumni includes Nate Archibald, Ralph Lauren, Stan Lee and Tracy Morgan. 
    After Reverend Baldwin's death in 1943 James tried to support the family but eventually moved out and began to live in Greenwich Village and interact with artists and musicians. At this time he met writer Richard Wright and became his protegee. Wright was instrumental in his securing a Eugene F. Saxon Foundation Fellowship in 1945. In 1947 he published his first professional work and the following year he was granted a Rosenwald fellowship.  
    He used the fellowship to go to Paris where he stayed and later traveled internationally but always returning to America and France. He never relinquished his American citizenship and wrote that he considered himself a "commuter". He never ceased to be politically active and speak out against racial inequality and advocating social change. 
    The city of Paris is divided into 20 districts referred to as arrondissements that spiral around the oldest portion of the city. Each neighborhood has a unique history and culture and most tourists agree that the real must-sees are districts 1 through 8. Districts 1-4 and 8 are situated on the Right Bank and 5-7 on the Left Bank.  
    African Americans were in Paris before 1900 including William Wells Brown, Norbert Rilleux, Frederick Douglass, Mary C. Terrell and James Hemings. WWI brought black soldiers and, most importantly, jazz to France. After the introduction of African American culture entertainers and artists followed and a community thrived. The end of WWII caused another influx of African Americans who sought more opportunity and greater racial equality. Baldwin stepped into this world in November of 1948 with hopes, dreams and $40.00. 

    He went from the airport to the 2nd floor of Cafe Deux Magots, in St.-Germain-des-Pres where he met with editors from Zero Magazine and Richard Wright. Baldwin's essay Everybody's Protest Novel was shortly to be published and Wright felt some of the criticism was aimed at him. A minor feud began between the two. The cafe is still there. 
    In his first Parisian years Baldwin lived in a series of minor hotels on Rue de Verneuil.  Later he would rent a cold water apartment at #48 Rue Jacob. The offices of Zero Magazine are located at #29 and #56 is where Benjamin Franklin signed the Treaty of Paris that granted the United States independence from Britain in 1783.  

    Baldwin's living spaces were often unheated and poorly lit causing him to write in nearby cafes. On Cafe de Flore's second floor Baldwin rewrote Go Tell it on the Mountain. Tourists can order Cognac or coffee, his drinks of preference here in his honor. Alfred Knopf wanted to publish the book in NY and Baldwin borrowed plane fare from Marlon Brando to return to America in the Beaux Arts Hotel at Rue de Beaux Arts #13. The Art-Deco Le Select Cafe was where much of Giovanni's Room was penned in 1955.

    Baldwin did gain international literary acclaim and was awarded the French Legion of Honor. His favorite hotel became the Hotel Port Royal and its restaurant Les Antiquaires on  Rue  Montalembert.

    He purchased a home in the south of France in St. Paul-de-Vence and it was there he was diagnosed with esophageal cancer and died on November 30, 1987. A memorial service was held for him at the American Cathedral on Avenue Georges V #23. 

    Baldwin was returned to Harlem where more than 4,000 people attended his 3-hour funeral services held at St. John the Divine, Amsterdam Avenue at 112th Street, on December 8, 1987. His 40-car funeral cortege drove pass the sites of his youth and continued to Ferncliff Cemetery and Mausoleum in Hartsdale. Baldwin rests in Hillcrest A, #1203.    

    The Fire Next Time began as a letter, published in The Progressive, to his nephew on the centennial of the Emancipation Proclamation. His Letter to My Nephew continues to resonate and has a message for us all. "This is your home, my friend, do not be driven from it; great men have done great things here, and will again, and we can make America what America must become." 
    NOTE: All French photos are courtesy of 
    Baldwin House is by Daniel Salomons 
    Other photos stock from web 


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    I recently learned of a FTC law requiring web sites to let their readers know if any of the stories are "sponsored" or compensated.  American Roads and Global Highways' feature writers are professional travel writers. As such we are frequently invited on press trips, also called fam trips. Most of the articles here are results of these trips. On these trips most of our lodging, dining, admissions fees and often plane fare are covered by the city or firm hosting the trip. It is an opportunity to visit places we might not otherwise be able to visit and bring you a great story. However, no one tells us what to write about those places. All opinions are 100% those of the author of that feature column.  

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