I just became a Southerner when I relocated to Florida. But I
grew up on “down-home” southern cooking. My northern mother
learned to cook from her southern mother. So naturally, I cook
mostly southern-style. Living in Italy had added to my kitchen
expertise. But I wanted to expand my culinary horizon even more.
So when I heard about a couple of cooking classes in Wisconsin,
I thought it would be worth a try.
I flew into Milwaukee, and was whisked the short hour to the
village of Elkhart Lake where I checked into the Osthoff Resort
This sprawling AAA Four-Diamond Resort overlooks lovely Elkhart
Lake. My rooms in the all-suite hotel included a full kitchen
and dining area. The living room featured a gas fireplace which,
I’m sure, comes in handy during Wisconsin’s frigid winters. A
balcony stretched across the living room and bedroom, and faced
|A living area in the all-suite
The amenities at Osthoff Resort run the gamut from total
relaxation to “rev-up-your-heart” action. There are indoor and
outdoor pools, fitness centers, saunas, whirlpools, hay wagon
rides, biking, beachfront bonfires, beach volleyball, nearby
golf courses and more.
With all that liveliness available, I, on the other hand,
preferred being pampered in the Aspira Spa (http://www.aspiraspa.com).
From a diverse list of traditional and innovative treatments, I
chose the Moroccan Hot Oil Massage that left me absolutely
rejuvenated and ready to hit the pots and pans. (Sorry to say
though: the masseuse was a young white woman, not a hot
|Book a cozy room for a couple's massage at the
Within the resort was the cooking school, L’ecole de la Maison(http://www.cookingschoolatosthoff.com).
Under the tutelage of chef instructor, Scott Baker, a small
group was taught how to prepare a full menu of French cuisine in
a three-hour workshop. (Longer courses are offered also.) Some
of the proposed menu items consisted of Strauss Lamb with
Parsley Crust and Madeira Sauce, Steamed Asparagus with
Hollandaise Sauce, Crepes Suzette and more.
|A class prepares French cuisine
at L'ecole de la Maison.
My assignment was to cook Coquilles St. Jacques au Gratin with
Grand Cru Gruyere – a first time dish for me. Unless you’re
Julia Child, French cooking can be daunting. It was doable,
thanks to excellent instruction, but I chopped and stirred and
chopped and stirred. Real kitchen work… I must admit that the
best part of the lesson was consuming the meal. Will I make it
back home? Only time will tell.
The history of Elkhart Lake travels back to when Native
Americans named it “the chosen place.” It sits fringed by a
forest of cedar trees, and is spring-fed. The water itself has
always been a draw – turquoise-hued, 120 feet deep and crystal
clear – so clear that fishermen can see what’s swimming below.
Anglers now share the lake with boats, kayaks, canoes, pontoons,
sailboats and other watercraft.
|Turbulent waves have dubbed Lake
Michigan the "Malibu of the Midwest."
I arranged to join a class at the historic Wade House (http://wadehouse.wisconsinhistory.org),
a former 1860s inn and stagecoach stop in Greenbush. Under the
course name, “Hearthside Dinner,” guests are invited to prepare
comestibles over a hearth and a wood-burning stove. Our group of
participants chose their dish assignment blindly from a deck of
menu cards which included a bill of fare that featured pork loin
roast, red cabbage with apples, glazed carrots, cranberry
muffins, bread pudding and squash soup, accompanied by cider and
freshly ground coffee.
|Docents Betsey Urven and Kathy
Dimig teach 19th century cookery at the historic Wade
Some of the student cooks went into the room with a large
fireplace to prepare bread and desserts. Baking pans filled with
batter would be set into metal closed containers and placed in
the hearth. I remained in the room with the big iron stove. It
had been burning wood since before we arrived, and was hot to
go. My task was to whip up mashed turnips. I peeled the turnips
and cut them into large chunks that went into a pan of water and
put on the surface of the hot stove. After the turnips were
cooked throughout, they were soft enough to squash (pardon the
pun). I used a wooden club-like masher, mixed in salt, pepper
and generous lumps of hand-churned butter.
|Craft beers rule in Sheboygan
One of the other cooks was grinding coffee by hand. When she had
finished, it went into a coffee pot and
boiled! No Keurig pods here. I expected a muddy, strong hot
beverage when drunk. But it was much better that what I get at
After concluding the delicious old-fashioned meal which was
served at a groaning board that served weary 19th-century
travelers in the old dining room, we cleaned up, washing dishes
in a sink, fed by a water pump -- 19th-century style.
Then the docents/ cooking teachers, Betsey Urven and Kathy
Dimig, showed us around the ancient house.
|Sheboygan has a lively arts
Twenty-five minutes away from my base at Elkhart Lake is the
city of Sheboygan that borders on Lake Michigan, “the Malibu of
the Midwest,” where wind and kite surfers soar high, propelled
by strong gusts. Serious fishermen arrive to test their skill at
landing a ten- to 40-pound trout or Chinook (a.k.a. King
Salmon). But the soft sand beach is perfect for families and
Sheboygan became a city in 1846. It had been settled in the
early 19th century by pioneers from New England and
New York, but their culinary influence hardly made a dent in the
area. It wasn’t until the vast migration of Germans appeared,
and, by 1849, their culture had become the dominate force,
especially with food and drink. The city is known as the
“Bratwurst Capital of the World.”
|Brats and German potato salad
can be found on most lunch menus in Sheboygan.
I toured the award-winning Miesfeld’s Meat Market kitchen (http://miesfelds.com/wp)
where they’ve been making the famous German sausage since 1941.
The worker demonstrated sausage making with an automatic machine
that stuffed a long intestine with ground sausage meat -- quick
and easy. It took much longer in the old days when workers did
it all by hand. Then the “stocking” was twisted and cut into
individual links. I noshed on a grilled one at their Miesfeld
|Miesfeld's Brat House serves the
popular German sausage.
When I returned home to my southern kitchen, I realized that I
was ready to show off for dinner parties, but for everyday fare,
“southern-fried” was still on my taste bud horizon.